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tAccasioH
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BANCROFT LIBRARY
THE WIND'S WILL
I ■ I ^« ■ «^ I
Illustrates
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THE LAND OF
SUNSHINE
THE MAGAZINE OFT
CALIFORNIA AND THE WEST
EDITED BY CHAS.F. LUMMIS
L. A. Eng Co.
SOME AI^PINE SCKNKRY. Near Redlands, Cal.
Photo by A. T. Park
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The Magazine of California and the West
EDITED BY CHAS. F. LUMMIS
The Only Exclusively Western Magazine
AMONG THE STOCKHOLDERS AND CONTRIBUTORS ARE : DAVID STARR JORDAN WILLIAM KEITH
, President of Stanford University. The g-reatest Western Painter.
FREDERICK STARR DR. WASHINGTON MATTHEWS
Chicag-o University. Ex-Pres. American Folk-Lore Society.
THEODORE H. HITTELL GEO. PARKER WINSHIP
The Historian of California. The Historian of Coronado's Marches.
MARY HALLOCK FOOTE FREDERICK WEBB HODGE
Author of "Tlie Led-Horse Claim," etc. of the Bureau of Ethnoloffj', Washing-ton.
MARGARET COLLIER GRAHAM GEO. HAMLIN FITCH
Author of " Stories of the Foothills." Literary Editor S. P. " Chronicle."
GRACE ELLERY CHANNING CHARLOTTE PERKINS STETSON
Author of " The Sister of a Saint," etc. Author of " In This Our World."
ELLA HIGGINSON CHAS. HOWARD SHINN
Author of " A Forest Orchid," etc. Author of " The Story of the Mine," etc.
JOHN VANCE CHENEY T. S. VAN DYKE
Author of "Thistle Drift," etc. Author of "Rod and Gun in California," etc.
CHARLES WARREN STODDARD CHAS. A. KEELER
The Poet of the South Seas. A Director of the California Academy
INA COOLBRITH «* ^'''''^^''•
Author of " Songs from the Golden Gate," etc. LOUISE M. KLELER
EDWIN MARKHAM ALEX. F. HARMER
Authorof" The Man With the Hoe." L. MAYNARD DIXON
JOAQUIN MILLER ^ ^^^^ ^^ ^^^ ^^^^^^^ ELIZABETH AND '"""^"^^^•
''''^^' fu^hl^'of'^T^'lif^S A?at?z," etc. ''""^Srs^'of" Ou^^F^^^^^^ Friends."
CONSTANCE GODDARD Du'bOIS BATTERMAN LINDSAY, Author of " The Shield of the Fleur de Lis." CHAS. DWIGHT WILL ARD
CONTENTS FOR JANUARY, 1901 :
The New Tower Arch at Stanford Frontispiece
Wind Song, Sharlot M. Hall 3
The California Classic, illustrated, Juan Del Rio 4
The Surprise Springs Meteorite, illustrated, H. N. Rust 11
Lo's Turkish Bath, illustrated, Idah M. Strobridge 13
The California Thrasher, illustrated, Elizabeth and Joseph Grinnell 19
An Undesirable Immigrant, illustrated, Lucy Robinson 22
In Western Letters, illustrated, C. F. L 26
A Sage-Brush Oasis, illustrated, C. F. L 28
The Wind's Will (story, concluded), Grace EHery Channing 32
Eagle Rock (Sonnet), Blanche M. Burbank 38
Early Western History, the "Memorial" of Fray Alonso de Benavides, 1630. Translated by Mrs. Edward E. Ayer, annotated by F. W. Hodge, edited
with notes by Chas. F. Lummis 39
Accurate Statistics of California 53
Te Deum Laudamus (poem) Eugene M. Rhodes 55
In the Lion's Den (editorial), Chas. F. Lummis 56
That Which is Written (book reviews), Chas. F. Lummis 61
California Babies, illustrated 67
The Inner Harbor at San Pedro, illustrated, C. D. Willard 69
Redlands, Cal. , illustrated 77
E^ntered at the Los Anereles Postoffice as second-class matter.
SEE publisher's PAGE.
^
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to all points of interest. It is headquarters for Tal-
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Has first -class Caf6 and rooms with bath and other convcnicuces. Rates are
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49
^ A. C. BILICKE & CO., Props.
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^ Second and Spring Sts.
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A DIFFERENT CALIFORNIA
Are all your ideas of California correct? You may not know, for instance, that in Fresno aud Kinjjs Counties, situate in the noted San Joaquin Vallev, is to be found one of the richest tracts of land in the State. CJO,000 acres of iheLajfiiiiadeTache grant for sale at $30 to $46 per acre, in- cluding Free Water Ititrlit, at 02^ cents per acre annual rental (the cheapest water in California). Send your name and address, and receive the local newspaper free for two months, and with our circulars added you may learn some- thing of this diffci;ent California.
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Cor,
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EYE STRAIN
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Princely Shoes for IVIen
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NEW CENTURY LIBRARY
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The NEW CENTURY LIBRARY is a radical departure in the art of book-making-. The larg-est novel is published unabridg-ed in a sing-le volume, which is so small that it is equally suitable for the pocket or satchel. As a librar3' edition it is handsome in the extreme. The size is only 4% x 6% inches, and not thicker than a monthly magazine. ^p^^ ^ypg jg ^g large and aS Casilj TCad
as that of the line which you are now reading. ^^*^ '^°'°° m7n?hS" *°"* *" "*
The volumes are published monthly in three bindings: Cloth, $i.oo per vol.; Leather, limp, $1.25; Leather, boards, $1.50. Already published: Uickens — "The Pickwick Papers," "Nicholas Nickleby," *' Oliver Twist," and " Sketches by Boz," " Old Curiosity Shop," "Martin Chuzzlewit," " Barnaby Kudge," " Dombev and Son," and " David Copperfield." Thackeray—" Vanity Fair," "The Newcomes," " Pendennis," ' Henry Esmond," " The Paris Sketch Book," etc., " The Book of Snobs," etc., "Burlesques," etc. " Men's Wives," etc., and "The Virg-inians," We shall complete Thacke- ray's Works at once by publishing- the remaining 5 volumes. Any volume sent postpaid on receipt of price. Prospectus free, on application to
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When you remember that Chautauqua is now twenty-seven years old, that it has gone into every State of the Union, that it has en- rolled more than a quarter of a million members, that it keeps in successful oj^eration a great variety of courses of home reading, that it Conducts the largest and most complete summer school in the world, iikI that eighty Chautauqua Summer Assemblies were held this year in thirty ditterent States, attracting over half a million people— you i;- t .some idea of its strength, its scope and its influence.
Chautauqua Assembly, Bureau of Extension (Dept. Z), Cleveland, Ohio.
^ia=.
FOR THE GARDEN
Sii^tc^i^JJ
.^^=m^^^
California Seeds
LEAD THE WORLD
Send for our Seed and Plant Catalogue.
GERMAIN SEED AND PLANT COMPANY
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Poultry and TJHbhit Sn7>ply.
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CALDWELL NURSERY CO.
JEROME CALDWELL, Manaqer
Deciduous and Ornamental Plants Citrus Trees « « « and Shrubs
353^ S. Main St.
North of Vnn Xuys Hotel
LOS ANGELES, GAL.
FERRY'S
^M^^^^^^ know what ■^-^^^^ you're jjlanting when you plant Ferry's Seeds. If you buy cheap seeds you can't be sure. Take no chances — get Ferry's. Dealers every- where sell them. Write for 1901 .Seed Annual- mailed free.
D. M. FERRY & CO. Detroit. Mich.
Tlir nrOT rnrrO ah kinds. OUve, orange, Hit DtOl IKttj Lemon Wa,„„. and
everything ^Ise^ Best''
grown and largest stock of street and orna- mental trees in Southern California. Roses, shrubs, etc. Best vaiieties, lowest prices.
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SEND JO CENTS FOR MRS. theodosia b. shepherd^s catalogue
OF SEEDS, PLANTS, BULBS AND CACTUS Ji ^ S ^ ^
Which amount will be credited on first order.
At VENTURA-BY-THE-SEA, California
Want Some California ^-Rpses}
Send^ then^ for the beautiful catalogue of the California Rose Co», as advertised on the next page^ Its fine photographs and accurate descriptions will help you select the varieties you prefer.
Meantime, reflect on the fact that two dollars, sent to this office, will bring you in return, two dollars worth, at list prices, of the roses named in that catalogue (your own selection), and one year's subscription to the Land of Sunshine*
Or we will ship, charges paid, to anyone remitting us five dollars for five new subscriptions to the Land of Sunshine, roses (your own pick again) to the value of two dollars*
If this interests you, let us hear from you*
THE LAND OF SUNSHINE PUBLISHING CO.
Los Angeles, C^U
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THK NKW TOWKK AUCH AT STANFORD UNIVKKSITY. Ph ito. by C. F. L.
Vol. 14. No. 1.
LOS ANGELES
JANUARY, 1901,
Wind Song.
BY SHARLOT M. HALL.
One day upon the wing-s of air
My soul shall get him forth, And nothing- know I whence or where,
To east or south or north ; And little care I through what ways
This soul of mine shall ride, Or if the call be soon or late,
At morn or eventide.
But I would go when strong winds blow
Full-throated down the heaven, And on the blast like pennants cast
The wild black hawks are driven. Oh, kith and kin are they to me,
Wild-^^^inged my soul shall pass With them, as their own shadows drive
Across the wind-swept grass.
Free winds that wander up and down
The weary hills of earth, What call like yours can sorrow drown,
Or touch her seas to mirth ? Strong winds that were tempestuous souls,
O brothers, bend and wait ; Take up my longings on your wings
And I shall conquer fate!
Prescolt, Ariz.
Copyright 1900 by Land of Suiishi
The California Classic.
BY JUAN DEL RIO.
HERE are several California classics, in- deed— for when Joaquin Miller and Mark Twain and Bret Harte knew little of a meaner world than the Frontier, each of them wrote some of the things that will last, the things that are and shall be matchless in their kind. But when we :ome to the novels, there is but one California classic, after all these years ; and that was written not b_v a Californian, not by one of the raw demig-ods of the unspoiled West, but b}' an East- ern woman who as often spelled California names wrong as right.
The issue, after 16 years, of the first really worthy edi- tion * of Ramoua — and a most beautiful edition it is^will be a comfort to the multitudes who have admired in a plain dress one of the greatest and one of the noblest of all American novels. Perhaps only one other volume of Amer- ican fiction has enjoyed so undying popularit}- — for Ramona
has sold by hundreds of thousands, and is still "selling better" than most of the "popular suc- cesses " of the da}'. It was a happy critic who first called it " the Uncle Toni's Cabin of the Indian ;" for while it is far ahead of Mrs. Stowe's masterpiece in verisimilitude, and in dignit}^ and even in liter- ary quality, it is nearer than any other American novel in the quality which has made Uncle Tom im- mortal — its genius of human sympathy. One hardly needs to be told that both were written, as Mr. Warner has said of Ramona^ " at a white heat of fervor. " And that most precious fire is the deep
H. H. HKI.KN HUNT JACKSON.
'".^""''•"■••V •••I'lio"." Little. Brown & Co., IJoslon, 1900. Med. 8vo. 2 vol8.,$6, with 23 full-iKiire photogravure ills, by Henry Sandham, and numerous headpieces.
THE CALIFORNIA CLASSIC.
BSMDSS
secret of power. These two women have won not onl}^ their natural S3^m- pathizers. It has been their rare dis- tinction to compel hundreds of thou- sands of unwilling readers — readers who cared less for Neg-roes and Indi- ans perse than the3^ did for the fortunes of a poodle— to thrill and smile, and turn dim-e3^ed over the revealed humanity of the Accursed Races. And there are those who would rather have had this success of teaching- a million hearts, and coming- forever into their fireside memories, than to have tickled the in- tellectual tj^mpan- ums of all the critics now extant.
Since Ramona is a purely Southern California story, and its enormous vogue, along- with the multitudinousness of tourists who peruse it and its scene together, have given rise to a great number of myths, local and Eastern, and have developed as much ignorance and untruth as might be expected, I have been asked to write a brief statement of the facts as they are proved to be, and as I have had pe- culiar advantages for knowing them — through long resi- dence in California, some study of its history, and an inti- mate acquaintance with all Mrs. Jackson's comings and goings here, her informants, advisers and friends, and all the scenes she has sketched with an accuracy which seems to me (in view of her short exploration) nothing short of marvelous. Surely no writer — even much greater, in the literary way, than Mrs. Jackson — could ever have drawn
Copyright, 1900, by Little, Brown & Co. SANDHAM'S " RAMONA."
6 LAND OF SUNSHINE.
SO lifelike a picture on so brief acquaintance, unless in the Vii^ht of a Pentecostal g-low of head and heart for a great faith. As those know who knew her, the matter had be- come almost an obsession. Her noble sympathy for the wron^js of an ill-treated race had failed of harvest in the direct field. Relatively few Americans have read her Cen- tiiry of Dishonor ; but her inspiration to "make a story of it " has borne fruit it is a pity she might not have lived to see.
As to the story, then. It is, one ought not to need to say, pure fiction. " Ramona " never lived, nor " Alessan- dro," nor the " Senora Morena," nor anyone else in the book. The commonest and cheapest lies told in California are perhaps those of people who "knew the original Ra- mona," or "the half-breed Indian Alessandro, who was killed for horse-stealing," and all the rest of this silly bask- ing of the small in the sunshine of greatness. Only less common, and perhaps quite as vulgar, is the cynical version — equally designed to impress tourists — that there " couldnH be such people." There could, and there are. I myself have known every type in the book.* The first time I read it, I "placed " them all. It is, I think, the greatest tribute to Mrs. Jackson's genius, that she saw these characters so intimately that a native recognizes them instantly. F^. 7Hia^ I do not know another famous American author who has ever drawn so true California types. Certainly Bret Harte never did, nor Mark Twain — both are far "stagier." "Idealized?" Well, do you know of any novel in which the Saxon characters are not idealized — even a novel by Howells ? Do you believe there ever was a woman so per- fect as the Heroine, or a man so adorable as the Hero, or a scoundrel so unmixed as the Villain ? If so, wouldn't you like to find them ? My humble judgment is that "Alessan- dro" and "Ramona" are as true to life as any hero and heroine in fiction. But I do not venture on sarcasm in these pages. The simple fact is, I believe, that Mrs. Jack- son has caught the true likeness of her "people," and has retouched them no more than we all demand. I have often wondered if there is anyone in the world who would read a story that was literally exact. •
As to the localities in the story, there is no possible doubt nor as to any of them. The "home ranch " is un- mistakably that fine old Spanish principality of the del Valles, Camulos. I have known the details of Mrs. Jack- son's hasty visit to that blessed spot ; I know every Spanish rancho in Southern California. The description is wonder- fully accurate there ; nowhere else does it fit at all. It
•S«>hav.'I. Ei»
THE CALIFORNIA CLASSIC.
From the Mjnt#ey '• Ramona.' Copyright, 1900, by Little, Brown & Co.
r.amona's mf:eting with father .sai^viekdrrra in the
MUSTARD-FIEIvD.
never would have been applied elsewhere, but for the hope of inveig-ling- money from "Ramona tourists." And if that were not enough, m}- dear old friend, now gone, Don An- tonio F. Coronel — who was also Mrs. Jackson's host and chief adviser here — told me explicitly that she asked him where to go for her rancho ; that he sent her to Camulos
LAND OF SUNSHINE.
y'tom the M nterey " RiiiiDna. " KYKS Ol"
THK SKY
Copyrighted, 190O, by Little, Brown A Co. KXCI.AIMKD YSIDKO.
with letters ; and that she and he discussed in many details her description of that place. As to the other localities of the story, there has never been any (luestion, I think.
THE CALIFORNIA CLASSIC.
Copyright, 19i'U, Uy Liitle, browu (SCo. AI^ESSANDRO SINGING TO FEIvIPE.
There was no sich a person " as the iron-like Senora Moreno " — but it is easy to see whence the character came. For in her few hours' visit Mrs. Jackson learned the extra- ordinary executive ability of a senora whose tenderness, justice and exalted womanhood — the proverb of her by no means little world — there was no chance to measure.
10
LAND OF SUNSHINE.
It has always been a fly in my ointment that the proper names in that noble book are so much misspelled — and to me absurd. ''Alessandro" is not Spanish, but Italian. It ought to be Alejandro. No American Indian, I am sure, ever bore the other name. "Father Salvierderra" is as painful. There was a Father Zalvidea among- the Francis- can missionaries ; but this seems to be a struggle for ' Sal- vatierra."
This beautiful edition of her great work is peculiarly grateful to those who have the best right to love the story
those who know and really, deeply care. Mr. Sandham's illustrations seem to me exquisite and decorative, but not purely Californian. Perhaps he saw types I do not know. At any rate, though I have known "Alessandros " and "Ra- monas," I have never seen those who look like his ; unless the campanile at Pala has grown since I was last there, it is not more than one-fourth as tall as he has pictured it. But perhaps it is ungrateful to say this ; for his pictures are very beautiful, and it seems well to have beautiful pic- tures in a book whose soul is as beautiful as that of any book I have ever known. Susan Coolidge's introduction is appreciative and tender, but does not quite grasp the land Mrs. Jackson loved and understood, nor does it seem quite broad enough to gauge, even as it tries to, that line, broad and noble American woman. But this edition, in its two stately volumes, it is a keen pleasure to own.
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THK 1»AI.A CAMPANILE.
11
The Surprise Springs Meteorite.
BY H N. RUST.
HK beautiful meteorite illustrated on page 12 was found last year b}^ a prospector named Dan. T. Hayes, on the desert near Surprise Springs, about 100 miles north- east of San Bernardino, Cal. Only re- cently he brought it to San Bernardino to learn what it might be. Mr. Reed, the assayer, recognized it for a meteorite, cut it and etched the surfaces, bringing out the beautiful frost-like crystallizations known as " Widmannstiitten figures," after the scientist who first described them. The specimen (of which the illustration shows the exact size) is a soft malleable iron, with a small percentage of platinum and nickel. It mea- sures three and a quarter inches in its longest diameter and two and three-quarters in its shortest, and weighs 53 ounces Troy. It was secured for the collection of Prof. Henry A. Ward, of Rochester, N. Y., one of the most enthusiastic and extensive collectors of meteorites in the world. The two specimens shown in the accompanying cuts were found in the vicinity of Canon Diablo, Ariz.
There is a peculiar fascination about these mysterious visitants which come no man knows whence ; the only foreign bodies which reach earth from Space. Their fall is gener- ally accompanied by a great light, and often by terrific de- tonations— the glow from the heat generated by their swift flight, and the reports by explosions of the mass.
Scientists divide them into three classes, according to their composition — aerosiderites (meteoric iron), aerosid- erolites and aerolites. The specimens whose descent has been observed are called "falls;" others are called "finds." The former are rare ; for the great majority of meteorites fall in the sea or lonely places. The record of observed falls during the century is only an average of two and a half a year. It was, indeed, long doubted by scientific men whether these curious metallic bodies really came from Space ; but a fall of over 1000 meteorites in France in 1803 convinced the last skeptic.
They were naturally prized by ancient man as fetiches, and still are, among uncivilized tribes. A meteorite which fell in Phrygia at an early date is said to have been adored as Cybele. In 652 B. C. a shower of stones fell in Rome, and so impressed the Senate that a solemn feast of nine days was held. The Chinese record a similar fall in 644 B. C. The oldest positively identified "fall" is believed
LO'S TURKISH BATH.
13
to be a mass of 260 lbs. of meteoric iron which fell in Germany in 1492. The Duke of Austria had it suspended in the parish church, where it may still be seen. Orna- ments made of meteoric iron were found in the Ohio Mounds by Prof. F. W. Putnam, of the Peabody Museum. All meteorites are characterized by a very thin, varnish- like surface, due to the superficial melting- by the friction of their fall. They also have rounded pits or "cupules," g-enerally shallow, and often looking- as if the mass had been molded by fingers while plastic. These also are due to the resistance encountered in their fall. Yet despite all this, they are not always hot, even superficially, when they reach the ground. Some have been picked up immediately and found to be little more than blood-heat, and one was so cold as to benumb the fing-ers. The}^ are of all sizes, from one no larger than a pea, which fell in Iowa in 1890, to a specimen in Mexico weig-hing- many tons.
' Lo's Turkish Bath.
BY IDAH MEACHAM STROBRIDOE.
IRTY as a Piute !" How often one living- in Greasewood-land hears the expression. ! Ay, and how often have I, myself (knowing- better than to be such a sheep), made use of it ! And when I, or others, say it, we refer invariably to bodily uncleanliness. As to the dirt of the Piute camp itself, that I g-rant you is — dirt. Dirt without any disg-uises ; but wholesome, if one is to base one's belief in the statement on the fat, roly-poly bits of bronze that tum- ble about the place playing- with the puppies, and emitting- such g-urg-les of laughter that your own heart is set sing-ing at the sound. We who are chiseled out of white marble do not take kindly to the lack of perfect clean- liness we sometimes find in our brother cast in bronze ; but as it is mostly the dirt that can be cleansed with a mop or a broom, let us forg-ive him. It migfht easily be worse — but isn't. Lo keeps himself clean by way of a bathtub as thoroug-h in its methods as your own.
Come with me. Let me prove that Lo in g-eneral, and Piute-Lo in particular, is often traduced. Come, and I'll show you a beautiful bathing--place (and there are hundreds more like it) where the folk of Caracalla's time, or others of those old fellows — though having- more luxuriously ap- pointed bath-houses — couldn't have been made cleaner.
Illustrated from photos, by the author.
MKTKOKI'IKS FOUND AT CANON DIABI.O, AKIZ.
MirrKOKlTK FROM CANON DIABM).
LO'S TURKISH BATH.
15
Away up in the top of a mountain (that is all blending- blues and violets till 3^ou reach it, and all greenish-gra}' with sag-e and mottled with mountain ma- hogan}^ when 3^ou do) lies a lake, long- and narrow, cold and clear; sounding-s have not found bot- tom. Almost at the crest of the mountain it lies, and is happily named "Summit Lake." It is the lake best beloved by the Piutes ; not because of its trout (yet where elsewhere are their like to be found?) but because the white man feels the place is too re- mote for him to think it worth while to en- croach on his broth- er's domain; and also because it is cool — deliciously cool there all the hot Nevada summer. I have known snow to whiten the peak of the mountain in Au- g-ust. And the snows, melting-, send a stream — such a stream ! a torrent of beauty and song- — down throug-h the cation to fling- itself joyousl}^ into the arms of the waiting- lake.
All up and down
16 LAND OF SUNSHINE.
the great mountain slopes are antelope and deer — not scat- tering- ones, but in herds. On the greater heights live, a few here and there, the Indian's favorite game — the big-- horn.
If 3'ou go there by the creek when the morning sun first finds it, )'ou will hear the rush of wings — the partridge- like whirr that, if 3'ou are a sportsman, makes your trigger finger itch for the touch of a shotgun — and dropping down b)" dozens and scores come sage chickens gray as the sagebrush that here grows tall as the willows, and wild gooseberry and rosebushes that border the banks.
This was a favorite haunt of the bronze man long ago. He lived here and found it good in the days when his name was a terror to the emigrant whose wagon crept down the valley beyond. This is the place his great-grandchildren seek today, loving it no less than did their grandsires.
A little less than half a hundred years ago, men wearing our American blue marched here and, at the creek's edge, built around three sides of a hollow square the substantial stone and adobe buildings that made their shelter in the days they went a-fighting the bronze men of the mountains. And when they came, their brown brother drew back and away — farther and farther till there was no further need of soldiers to protect the emigrant down below, winding his way westward. When the bronze man melted away, the other went. Only the houses remained. Then the bronze man came creeping back — quieter, wiser.
Would you see it today? The walls show the wear and war of the years and the elements, but the name of the old fort survives — Camp McGary. The buildings are still in- habited. But those who go in and out of the officers' quarters— who greet you at the door of the guard-house — whom you meet on the old parade-ground, do not wear the soldier-blue. The brown brother has sole possession of the buildings that were upreared against his arrows and by those who sought for his undoing.
It is here the Piute today is happiest when he hunts and fishes ; here he has his days of work and play days ; here he lives, and loves, and — yes, bathes !
Down by the creek-edge, sweet with the breath of sweet- briar and mint and plum-bushes abloom, is something that attracts your unaccustomed eye. Bent willows, stripped of their branches and leaves, have been thrust — each end — arch-like, into the ground, forming the framework of a tiny dome-shaped structure whose uses you are yet to learn. Willow bands hold it together— tied at their crossings with the willow hoops with thongs of buckskin or bits of bright cloth. It is perhaps four feet in diameter— not more than
LO'S TURKISH BATH. 1'
two and a half high. In one side has been left an opening- big- enough for a grown person to crawl through. Its floor is smooth, and clean, and hard ; and at one side is a deep hollow — bowl-shaped. There are some large, smooth stones lying near. Such is Lo's bathtub. His bathroom is the wide sapphire sk}^, the sage-scented hills below and the cedar-sweet heights above, the rim of the silver lake at one side, the ripple of running water at the other.
It might be worse.
And now Lo, himself, comes down from the place that of old knew the bugle call ; that todav is echoing to child-
|
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tS^^^^M":**;^-^ |
^ M:^ |
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A piutb: " s\vf;at-h()use."
laughter. When he reaches the framework that the white man has named for him " a sweat-house " he unwraps his blanket from his bod)^ and winds it about the willow wee house, fastening it down tightly everywhere that no air may pass through, except at the very small doorwa3\ Then he proceeds to build a fire of the half-dead roots and branches of big sagebrush near by. Soon he has a great lot of red coals, and into them he places the big smooth stones that were lying near the sweat-house. Then, while they are heating, he sits on his heels, and looks awav off down in the valley toward the lake, and meditates — sits silent and motionless as — well, an Indian. Once in a while
18
LAND OF SUNSHINE.
A I'lUTE FAMILY.
he rouses himself to add more fuel to the campfire. He has not forgfotten, though he sits so still 3'ou begin to think he no longer remembers what he came down here to the lovely bloom-bordered creek for. By and by he fills the bowl-shaped hollow in the sweat-house with water from the creek bringing it in a basket marvelously woven of willows l^y some woman of his camp. Then at last, when the stones are as hot as the tire may make them, they are rolled into the earth-bowl of water there is a hiss of rising steam Lo's raiment droi)s from him as by the touch of a magic wand, and he stands bronze-brown and naked as when (iod made him then he stoops, crouches, and has slipped under the curtained doorway, that is now tightly fastened, and Lo is taking his bath. Bathing himself in
THE CALIFORNIA THRASHER.
19
the fashion known to all nations as the most thorough and most cleansing-.
Lo sta3^s there longer than his white brother could pos- sibly endure those clouds of uprising hot vapor ; so long that )^ou fall to wondering if he ma)^ not have succumbed to that suffocating heat.
But no ; after a long, a very long time, there is a move- ment of the blanketed doorway, and there emerges a bronze statue, a statue glistening like polished copper ; Lo comes forth shining with the perspiration that has cleansed every pore. There is a rush to the creek's edge — a plunge into its deepest pool (ice-cold from the melted snows that go toward its filling), and when Lo comes forth his body is all aglow from the quickened blood that now courses through his veins, and made fresh-skinned and clean by a bath that knows no betters.
*' Dirty as a Piute ? " Lo, I beg your pardon !
Humboldt, Nev.
The California Thrasher.
RY ELIZABETH AND JOSEPH GRINNELL.
BIRD in the hand is 7wl worth two in the bush, as any one can see by the indignation in his eye and the contempt of his whole atti- tude. However, if one can man- age to pick up a California Thrasher and subject him to the inquisition of the camera for just one minute for the express pur- pose of giving his photograph to the Land of Sunshine readers, he makes a pretty fair picture. In the attempt to make him roost upon the finger against his will, the long legs of this notorious runner are invis- ible, but this disadvantage is more than offset by the full evidence of his magnificent beak, which is as strong as it is gracefully curved. The upper parts of this bird are a uniform dark, brownish grey, tail slightly darker than the back; throat whitish; breast, brownish grey, merging into the pale cinnamon brown of the belly, while the beak is black. He impresses one as well dressed, even to the tip of his long black toes. Nature's own devotee is he, for he scorns the habitations of man and all of man's cultivated lands, though it is believed that an individual of such agri- cultural tendencies as himself will one day become the California ranchers' sworn and affectionate ally. At present
20 LAND OF SUNSHINE.
his home is always in the chaparral. From the Sacra- mento Valley to California's southernmost hem this thrasher is abundant. His highest perch may be the top- most twig- of a buckthorn, or the tapering- finger of a scrub oak, not a high pedestal to be sure, but it answers the pur- pose of a stage for the little singer. And how he sings ! His notes are variable, being composed of snatches of bor- rowed music, and yet so soft and beautiful that they seem distinctly his own. He sings on for hours, especially in the early morning, without regard to breakfast, until he feels the pangs of hunger, such pangs no doubt being accentu- ated b}' the faint movement of the dr}- leaves under the perch of the singer. And then the musician becomes the common drudge for daily bread, the "Adam in the garden," the ordinary farmer who must grub for a living. And he knows where and how to make the best of the situation. If it were possible to domesticate the California Thrasher it would rival the farmyard fowls in a raid on the pansy beds ; for of all birds that love to scratch and dig in loose light soil, the thrasher would take the medal. His long, curved bill was made on purpose to investigate the retreat of grub and larvce, and woe be to an}' insect of edible virtue which comes within his reach ! He digs holes in the ground just for fun, if there be no food in sight, and would no doubt bore for oil, were it not that he is neither a capitalist nor a broker. In captivity this inclination to dig holes in something with his marvelous beak still is his, and so he is given a stale loaf of bread wherein he pecks to his heart's content. A break in the plastering on the wall once discovered, the bird never forgets its exact location and keeps on at his "calling." With him the instinct that treasure is always buried has made him almost a genius.
During July and August the thrasher moults and then only is his voice unheard. After breakfast, and his usual exercise, he mounts to his twig again and sings. If inter- rupted by the approach of a stranger he does not fly but simply drops out of sight on the side of the bush or tree opposite the intruder.
If not followed, the bird runs along to the next bush, where he hops up through the foliage to the topmost twig and goes on with his music. If pursued, he does not take long Mights, but runs swiftly, as only a road runner (be- sides himself) can run. Nor does he go over the tops of bushes, but around and between them, always keeping out of sight. If by lucky chance the observer does catch a glimpse of him, his body will be seen tilted slightly for- ward and his tail at an angle of 35°.
The California Thrasher nests as early as the hummer.
THE CALIFORNIA THRASHER.
21
eggs being" found from December until June. The eggs are three in number, not unlike those of the robin, but spotted with brown above the brig-ht blue of the ground. The nests are not works of hig-h art, for the}- consist of a platform of ang-ular twigs, with a more neatl}^ molded saucer-shaped lining of dr}^ rootlets and horsehair. The nests are placed among- the branches of bushes two or three feet above the ground. Though the bird is ordinarilv a
THK CAI^IFORNIA THRASHER.
sh3^ one, it can be almost touched when surprised on the nest ; then she slips silently away and the intruder must wait a long- while before he sees her again. Be he a true son of Mother Nature, he will bide his time in the shadow of the chaparral, even thoug-h he be late to camp and hungry for his supper ; for well he knows she will return. And there is a fascination in the waiting:.
Pasadena, Cal
22
An Undesirable Immigrant."^
BY LUCY ROBINSON
N describing" the manners and customs of the mongoose, as I knew him in Jamaica, I shall try to treat with fairness that na- tive of Hindostan ; not forgetting- to pay tribute to his marvelous courage, sur- passing, it seems to me, that of any other animal not more than double his size. Often from the veranda of our bunga- low we watched him running along the bluff, resembling in color, shape, and leanness a common red squirrel, but, like the grey ground-squirrel of California, confining his exploits to le?'ra Jirma.
On the other hand, his running, instead of a series of squirrel leaps, is a stealthy trot like the tread of a sober- minded cat, without loping or prancing. The mongoose moreover holds his bushy red tail straight out behind him, never letting it curl over his back like a squirrel's.
After we had once or twice observed the sharp-nosed, ferretlike animal furtively crossing the promontory below our rookery, we began to understand why the roosters, the hens and their broods so often in broad daylight came dashing back, as if panic-stricken, from the cliff overhang- ing the Caribbean. We understood why a handsome hen, that started out the day before with a dozen newly-hatched chickens, now had only eleven, the next da}^ only nine, and so on, till of all her promising brood only a solitary chicken responded to her despairing cluck.
In taking up our abode at Savanna Point, on the north- east coast of Jamaica, we found ourselves in the heart of the original mongoose quarter ; for it was at the estate im- mediately adjoining our lonely cocoanut walk that the animal was first introduced from India. In 1872, with a view to exterminating the cane-destroying rat, a native — somewhat imaginative — Jamaican, Hon. Bancroft Espeut, proprietor of Spring (larden estate, and a man of consider- able ability, at one time member of the Legislative Council of the island, procured two pairs of mongooses, and turned them loose upon his plantation. Rats were doing serious mischief to young cocoanuts, by climbing the palm-trees and nibbling or breaking off the immature fruit. Girdling the trees with inverted tin pans failed to keep the rats from ascending ; but it was thought that the mongoose, which does not shirk from an encounter with the Indian
troyer
*AprAno8 of an effort to introduce the mouifoose in this State as a pest-des- rer.- Ed.
AN UNDESIRABLE IMMIGRANT.
23
cobra, would soon make an end of the common vermin of the West Indies.
The two pairs imported in 1872 flourished and multiplied, till their progeny had spread its conquests to all parts of the island. For a time, the newcomers enjoyed such high favor, and were in such demand, that boys who entrapped and offered them for sale often received a guinea a pair for them. Like many other animals distinguished for courage and daredeviltry, my hero is lacking in shrewdness, and therefore easily captured. This defect has wellnigh sealed the doom now hanging over his devoted head ; for the pest
" MEAT FOR THE MONGOOSE."
he was called in to exterminate is more than a m^tch for him in cunning. Discovering that their arch-enemy's vic- tories were always won by daylight; that his home was a hole in the ground; that he was no climber, and never prowled at night, the rats simply withdrew to the treetops, making them nests among the growing cocoanuts, and jeering, no doubt, at the mongoose, as the kid reviled the wolf in the fable. Only at night, when the low-caste In- dian is sleeping, do. the rats venture to descend and pursue their usual investigations in the canefield or domestic
24 LAND OF SUNSHINE.
sugrar-barrel. At this writing they are only less at peace with the monj^oose than are the blacks of Jamaica with the coolies imported in such numbers from India. But this ad- justment of the matter is not pleasing- to the planter. Since the monj^oose completed the destruction of the snakes that formerly infested Jamaica, and turned his attention to the poultry, the tide has turned ag-ainst him, and all land- owners are interested in his extermination. If the intrepid little hero could plead his own cause, he would doubtless arjfuc that he had been invited to Jamaica on false pre- tenses. That he is the St. Patrick of the island is estab- lished beyond a peradventure. Durin«r our nine months on the north coast, we went daily into the deepest jungle without dread of reptiles ; nor did we come upon anything- distantl}' resembling a serpent; save now and then a harmless lizard of rich brown or brightest emerald, that ran up and down the veranda, and had a plate of crumbs all to himself at afternoon tea. This is an island formerly abounding in snakes, as its neighbors — notably Martinique — still abound, making it perilous to set foot in the public parks.
But no sooner had the mongoose dealt with the snakes as with the i)r()phets of Baal, letting not one of them es- cape him, than it was found that he was also something of a bird and L^iXii; fancier. Birds are now dwindling- alarmingly in number and variety, — and who devours their eggs if not the ul)i(iuitous mongoose?
On our cocoanut walk his ravages were so heartil)' de- tested that a daily traj) was set for him ; and not a week passed without a chorus of barks from Foxy and O/r-de- Lion, announcing the capture of a mongoose, and their expectation that he would instantly be turned loose under their noses. What joy to pounce upon the wiry little fellow, who was game to the last, spitting and strik- ing out right and left, wheeling and doubling with such incredible skill that once or twice he escaped al- together from the clutches of men and dogs Once, when we thought nothing could save him from being torn to pieces, changing his ordinary gait to a frantic sidewise jumj), he darted under a ])ile of dry palm-fronds, to which the head-coolie applied a match, in hope of tiring him out ; the dogs meanwhile standing nonplussed in front of the blazing heap. As he made no demonstration, and could not be discovered when the heap had been reduced to ashes, we concluded that he must have escaped by digging- a hole and burying himself deep in the ground.
We once caught two mongooses within a few hours of each other, and placed them in a hastily-constructed
AN UNDESIRABLE IMMIGRANT. 2^
prison. We administered to them, all at once, an en- tire famil}" of five rats, caug"ht in one trap on the precedinijf nig-ht. These the}- dispatched one at a time, each with a single bite in the nape of the neck, devouring- them with fiendish energy.
The}^ also partook cheerfully of the bananas we laid at their feet ; but such was their fierceness and activity that to tame them or even to take a photograph of them was an impossibilitv.
Like most persons under suspicion, the mong-oose is prob- ably the victim of many libels. I have seen it stated that
A SCENE IN JAMAICA.
he attacked pigs and kittens ; yet so far as I know, he never carried off one of the wolfish kittens or sucking swine that swarmed at Savanna Point.
Further knowledge of the mong-oose — no less accurate than entertaining- — ma}- be found in Kipling's first "Jungle Book," the mongoose of Jamaica being the identical Rikki-Tikki-tavi of that thrilling- narrative. In fact, Rikki-tikki-tck-tck is what the diabolical little animal actually sa3^s, with his red e3^es blazing-, the incarnation of hatred and race-prejudice, all hisses and curses ; for I am convinced that in his own languag-e he curses, swears and
26 LAND OF SUNSHINE.
blasphemes in one breath. But I have endeavored to g"ive him his due. In the Hawaiian Islands, where the ques- tion of shipping my hero to San Francisco* is now under discussion, there is a bounty on his head. The reader may draw his own conclusions as to whether the animal is a proper candidate for naturalization in California.
■^^s^WMjts.
Miss Constance Goddard Du Bois, whose striking- novel of Southern California (first published as a serial in these pages) has just been brought out by Stone, is a typical New England woman. She has handled a difficult story with quiet, precise yet earnest touch ; and the outcome does honor to her head and heart. Her local color is accurate almost be- yond comparison with any other fiction which has Southern
California as a field. Less impulsive and inspired than Helen Hunt, whose /^ a m o n a stands alone, she wholly avoids Mrs. Hunt's too frequent blun- ders of minor detail ; and her general picture is quite as true in its hu- manity. Its love episode is a nobler one, if not so compelling, withal ; for it crosses a deei)er gulf the impossible gulf of race-prejudice. But so
CONSTANCK GODDARD DU BOIS.
rboto. hy r. F. L.
*It has bt*en forbidden by the Treasury Department.
IN WESTERN LETTERS. 27
far as truthfulness to fact and nature goes, A Soul in Br'onze is the peer of Ramona ; and fiction thoug"h it be, very few sermons are as true as Rcmiona.
Miss Du Bois, who has written The Shield of the Fleur de Lis and several other books of esteem, is at home in Waterbur}^ Conn.; but spends her summers in California in earnest efforts to relieve the Mission Indians, who are cruelly crowded to the wall.
FLORENCK FINCH KELLY. ^lorence Fiuch Kelly, whose rousing- story of New Mexico, With Hoops of Steel, was noticed in these pages last month, is a 3'oung looking and sensitive- faced woman — upon whom this her latest photograph seems to me a libel, for in fact she looks ver}^ like a wild rose. She was born in Illinois, but grew up in Kansas and grad- uated at the State University at Lawrence. After grad- uation she went at once into newspaper work, briefly in Chicago, then in Boston ; and was for three )^ears an active editorial writer on the Boston Globe, as well as art critic. Through a presidential campaign she had entire charge of the Troy, N. Y., Telegrajn editorial page. Then she mar- ried Allen Kelly, a well known newspaper man who had been co-laborer with her on the Boston Globe. They started a weekly paper in Lowell, Mass. ; then (those who have started weeklies may supply the gap before the next word) went to Pall River. Then newspapering in New York and San Francisco, and then to the New Mexico sojourn. From the cowboy belt the}^ came to Los Angeles, where for about a year Mr. Kelly was city editor of the Ti^nes, and Mrs. Kelly its literary editor, as well as an active staff writer. They have roughed it a good deal together in the Rockies and the California Sierra. Both are now in Philadelphia, where Mr. Kell}" is an editorial writer on the North A?neri- can, and Mrs. Kelly an occasional contributor. She reckons herself " a Kansan, more than anything else."
* * *
From cowboys to child-study is a good rifle-shot ; but Western sights are adjustable for all ranges. When any- thing whatsoever needs doing, there is a Westerner to do it.
Miss Milicent W. Shinn (sister of our own Chas. Howard Shinn) is a native Californian, born in Niles where she and her brother still live ; a graduate and Ph. D. of the Univer- sity of California, and for several years editor of the Over- land Monthly when it was a magazine. For several years
28 LAND OF SUNSHINE.
she has been gfoingf deepl)' into j^enetic pS3xholog-y, after the lines of Preyer ; observing- and recording minutely the unfolding- development of the mind and body of her brother's baby Ruth. Her book, YViC Biography of a Baby, just issued by Houghton, Mifflin & Co., is an important con- tribution to the scant literature of that intimate problem which is on every home blackboard, but is so rarely at- tempted to be solved. And it is an interesting record, 'as
well as a scholarl}" one.
*
Charles and Louise Keeler — whose new book, written by him, decorated by her, is noticed on another page — are on a cruise to "Tahiti and way' stations " in the South Seas.
' A Sage-Brush Oasis.
OR several years a pretty sure welcome has been standing- in this office for MSS. in blue covers in a firm, round tist and with the postmark "Hum- boldt, Nev." — if you chance to know where that dot of the map is on " yan " slope of the Sierra. These stories and sketches are of the literary merit which inheres in directness, sincerity and impulse. It is not too much to call them well written — but even more, they are well felt. They are earnest and honest work ; and of an excellent sympathy and strength. A harassed editor often wishes he had to read no MS. less like dried cod than the alive contributions signed Idah M. Strobridge.
Up on that remote and beautiful mountain ranch, a long way out of the world — as the world wobbles now — this ranchwoman of the sage-brush is turning her own competent hands to several good uses. Aside from the big ranch on the Humboldt, she has a gold mine up in the caiion — and there is no tenderfoot overseer. And as house- keeping and mining and ranching are not enough for a really active spirit, and as writing is only half enough recreation, Mrs. Strobridge has plunged as heartily into book-binding. Not as a fad, nor yet commercially; but, so far as can be seen, for pure love of work worth while. And though this sage-brush artisan has been studying out this exigent trade by herself, off there in the wilderness, her work is emphatically worth while. A commercial-bound book looks cheap beside her staunch and honest and tasteful bindings ; and when I have a book that merits to endure longer than the commer- cial binds can make it, off it goes to Humboldt— and never in vain. The old tomes on my shelves will last as well — the books bound from one to four centuries ago but practically none of the modern ones will keep their jackets so long.
The "Artemisia Bindery " (for so Mrs. Strobridge merrily calls her home work-and-play-shop) is not open for business. If it were, it would have its hands full since there are still people who care less for a $50 binding on a dollar book than they do for good books bound with so much honesty and sincerity as are most rare now. Her bind- ing is Love's Labor Won. One of the oldest and most famous binders in the United States told me he did not believe a book I showed him from her hands could be more substantially bound anywhere.
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A SAGE-BRUSH OASIS.
29
THK S?:WTNG-PRKSS.
THE TvYING-PRESS.
IN THE ARTEMISIA BINDERY.
THE BINDER.
32 LAND OF SUNSHINE.
The Artemisia Bindery, in an attic of the big ranch-house, is almost entirely home-made — as is the binder's skill. It seems to me a very interesting- achievement in every way, that of this plucky and able woman. The wonder is not that a woman should bind books — for many do so — but that anyone should bind them so adequately.
The Wind's Will
BY GRACE BLLERY CHANNINO
[concluded.]
HE Professor's pale cheeks grew scarlet. He lifted his eyes cautiously; Tom was gone, so was the bowl of roses. There could be nothing-, in the fullfilment of his expressed wish* to in- cense so reasonable a person ; therefore it must have been some memor}- of his nephew's imper- tinence which animated him to thrust aside papers, instruments, pamphlets and chair in rapid succession and fall to pacing the room impatiently.
An hour later, when he descended to dinner, one may suppose a raging of wings in the eagle's nest, a rattling of glass lips and hold- ing up of wooden hands to heaven ; for the first time in the histor}- of the weather shelter, the Professor had neglected to take his obser- vation !
A slight constraint reig-ned at the dinner table. Elisabeth was a trifle distant in her manner to the Professor, but very gay with Tom, in whose buttonhole the Oloire Lyonnaise retained its i)lace. The air coming in from the rose-garden irritated the Professor's nerves more than ever ; he pushed away the plates of luscious mel- ons and let the nectarines, plums and peaches go untasted. Was it possible, he wondered, that Tom, who was very indiscreet, might have told Miss Elisabeth what he had said of the roses ? And if so, Tom was wholly capable of ignoring that it was she who put the flowers there. The Professor started up precipitately and left the room.
"Lord, forgive him," groaned Tom ; ''he is getting to be an al)solute crank."
"I don't think Professor Dahlgren is well," said Elisa- beth's mother kindly. '*He used not to be so — so"
*' Insufl'erable," supplied Tom. ''What can you expect, living as he does at his age ? He is only thirty-eight after all. But he never wasyoung^; he was born old a mummy in his cradle. Now one good game of tennis — such as you
THE WIND'S WILL. 33
and I are going- to play, Miss Elisabeth, as soon as I have eaten this peach — would make a new man of him."
The Professor, meanwhile, out on the veranda before the instruments and seeing- nothing, told himself it was dys- pepsia ; but when he heard the others approaching he re- treated abruptly to the house-top.
The two, looking up from the tennis-court, beheld him seated upon the low balcony, his chin supported on one hand, his face a little raised, the profile visible against the singularly blue sky, like a fine cameo cut upon the living sapphire.
' Poor old chap I " remarked his nephew with a shrug.
"Ah," exclaimed Elisabeth, "you are wrong; he is younger than any of us." And the rest of the afternoon there was a certain shadow in her eyes ; perhaps she be- grudged that anything should be )^ounger than she.
And the Professor, what was he dreaming up there on the shores of that atmospheric ocean. whose waves, invisible to an eye less fine, he beheld rising and falling ? To others it presented nothing more than the luminous surface of blue, a Californian sky at midsummer, the most constant of all the skies that are, which one might watch from dawn to dusk and behold no mutation except a paling of the blue at noon as by the drawing a golden veil between it and the eye, or a deepening of the blue at evening when the golden veil was withdrawn. But to the Professor its unseen tides were visible, the silent sweep of its currents, its eddying spirals, the rapid fury of the cyclone with its calm and ter- rible blue eye — both wind and light were clear to his vis- ion. That ocean wore no veil for him, but it still possessed secrets ; there lay its charm. To rein those wind forces, to chain the air, to drive and subdue and compel the uncom- pelled — that longing possessed him as the passion for the sea does the sailor. Trouble fell away from him ; time ceased to exist for the lonely scientist in the hours in which he sat there like Kepler, thinking the thoughts of God after him.
Across the waves of that air-ocean, borne to his ear by them as the sea might cast a mocking shell up on the shore at a watcher's feet, came the clash of tennis-racquets col- liding and a burst of laughter. The Professor started and looked down into upturned faces flushed with merriment, a poise of swift arrested figures brilliant with youth and en- ergy, and the sky shut down blankly, pale and cold, an opaque blue sheet as others saw it, before him. He felt all at once old, and turned away.
"I am afraid," said Elisabeth with compunction, "we disturb his studies."
34 LAND OF SUNSHINE.
"If we could,^^ replied Tom with energy, ** it would be doing him a little favor ; but it isn't his studies that are disturbed."
Elisabeth was examining- the strings of her racquet criti- cally. *' Perhaps it is the climate," she said slowly.
*' Perhaps." Tom was not examining his racquet.
'* Or the roses ? They seem to annoy him."
"You can't think how they annoy him," Tom replied drily. "This one in my buttonhole, for instance. He calls it a Gloire Lyonnaise, by the way."
Elisabeth removed her eyes from the racquet and opened them widely.
"Gloire Lyonnaise ! Why, its a common cabbage-rose !"
" It might be a common cabbage ; all is one to the mind of science when affected by — er — climate." Here Tom batted a ball over the net so fiercely that it lost itself in the rose garden.
"2??w needn't destroy my roses," said Elisabeth reproach- fully. "After all, if your uncle dislikes them, he has a right to the taste or distate. When a man has done so much as he has, he can afford a few eccentricities."
"He has done pretty well, for a fact; written at least two books so learned nobody but himself can understand them, and got no end of the alphabet tacked to his name, but what good does that do him ? He doesn't know enough to take care of himself even ; in fact, as I told him today, he needs — " Tom paused abruptly.
"He needs," repeated the girl innocently.
"A guardian. I was about to say a wife, but it occurred to me it's a man's business to take care of his wife." The young fellow straightened himself as he said it and looked squarely at the girl.
She made no reply, but Tom, watching keenly as she stooped to pick up a ball with her racquet, saw a swift, pink blossom in the cheek turned toward him.
"It is too warm to play another set," said Elisabeth, walking away toward the house.
Tom felt a pang of something akin to remorse as he followed.
"Perhaps I need not have said it," he thought, "but I can't help it now. Why doesn't he take his own part — like a man I "
He was extremely, almost remorsefully, affectionate to his uncle in the days ensuing, which somehow tried the nerves of the Professor to the last degree. He attributed this to the dryness of the atmosphere acting as a nerve- irritant. The uninterrupted sun, under whose beams no dog had ever. been known to go mad, he concluded might
THE WIND'S WILL. 35
nourish something- approaching- dementia in the human being. The obvious fact was that he suffered, and there was nothing- but the climate to hold responsible for his suf- ferings. As day succeeded day, golden and glowing from dawn to dark, and night followed night, cool, fragrant and filled with the song of mocking-birds singing all night long- in Elisabeth's garden, the Professor's malady waxed, and he longed for any kind of a change.
It came.
One morning the Professor turned his tired eyes eastward and the valley was full of golden dust. Distant shapes of San Jacinto and San Bernardino were not ; only the near Sierras loomed vaguely through a golden mist which bil- lowed at their feet. Presently a soft scurrying wind began to blow, in fitful gusts at first which did nothing but whirl the eucalyptus leaves and lift the loose earth in handfulls ; the air was warm, the sky intensely blue. When the Pro- fessor came down stairs the house was already softly in- vaded with a filmy coat of gray.
"It is the Santa Ana," said Elisabeth. "Once in two or three years only we get it here. See how it comes 1 "
As she spoke, a steady wind began to blow. Presently you could lean against it. A little later, the whirl of leaves and driving of dust clouded the vision, and still the steady wind continued to blow out of the intensely blue sky. The valley itself went next : there remained only a blue and gold nearness through which the wind, going like a broom over every inch of road, made a clean sweep, leaving the ground hard as a parlor floor behind and brushing the litter of pepper berries, leaves and bark into corners and borders, like a careful housewife. Then the tall trees began to bow; the eucalyptus bent double, but the stiff er pepper re- sisted till crack went its boughs. Stately amid all the wild dance, the Italian cypress on the lawn swa3^ed and nodded its lofty tip like a gigantic funeral plume.
The Professor, clinging with both hands to what migfht be nearest from time to time, made his way down to the office for the mail with its eternal Weather Map. The vigor of the storm acted upon him like wine. It blew his hair and whipped the color to his cheeks and lips, and he found himself laughing for pleasure as he battled onward. There is something infinitely exhilarating in these sun-lit storms, when the landscape goes on its mad dance all in blue and gold about one. Tom and Elisabeth stood on the lawn, with glowing faces and ruffled hair, watching the swaying and bending* and tossing, wondering- what would be next to go. Up above on the roof the weather shelter cracked and swayed.
36 LAND OF SUNSHINE.
*' If that doesn't go, it's a wonder," remarked Tom. And then hearing the hoofs of Elisabeth's bronco, he ran to the little barn — as slender in construction as a Japanese house — to make sure Diavolo and the wind together had still left it standing.
When he returned Elisabeth was gone. He ran hastily around the house to look for her. On every side the living green things were writhing and twisting and snapping. Head on to the blast, Tom ran fairly into his uncle who was driven on before it, breathless and brilliant with the elemental strife.
*' Hullo," shouted Tom, *' have you seen Miss Elisabeth ? I left her out here."
*'I've seen nothing," the Professor shouted back, when crack went a giant eucalyptus bough across their path, and both men jumping back, looked upward and saw her.
High above them on the house top, clinging with both arms to the weather-shelter, pounding up and down as its one freed leg pounded, and clinging still with all her slen- der weight to its side, while her ruffled hair streamed about her face amid a rain of leaves and twigs, and her skirts flapped sail-wise, she laughed down at them triumphantly. 'It's madness!" exclaimed Tom sharply; *'the thing will go and she with it."
"Elisabeth!" cried the Professor in a voice no one had ever heard before and which rang above the wind, * ' come down instantly ! "
It was the weather-shelter which obeyed. As if knowing the master's voice, it gave one frantic plunge, tossed off the clinging arms like tendrils, leaped the railing with one ungainly bound, thrust a derisive leg through the ell-roof and another through the Professor's own window, sprink- ling his room with glass as with a shower, and flew on- ward toward the garden. Tlje Professor fled likewise, and Tom, at whose side a fluttering gown silently appeared, followed with warier haste. He and the shape beside him arrived at the turn of the path just in time to witness the apparently simultaneous descent of the Professor and the shelter, whose three remaining legs seemed to gather and hurl themselves with a directed aim at the Professor's head before they and he went down together in a compound rat- tle, shiver and smash of glass, wood and metal.
As the two pale witnesses drew near, the Professor rose to his feet with a gesture of despair.
** It is ruined !" he exclaimed. His eyes soufifht Elisa- beth's with a hopelessness of appeal.
*'OhI" she breathed only.
Tom had thrown himself upon the debris, in his turn.
THE WIND'S WILL. 37
** Utterly ruined — smashed," he reported, rising- from his hasty investigation, his hands full of broken tubes, twisted bars and splinters — all that remained of the finely tested instruments. Poor Max and Minnie ! they had taken their last flight.
*' Ruined I" repeated the Professor tragically, still with an entreating eye upon Elisabeth.
" I am so sorry," she faltered.
*' Come, "said Tom, after a moment's silence in which the contempt of Science began to dawn upon him, "it mig-ht have been worse. Suppose Miss Elisabeth had been smashed up with it."
''Ruined I" repeated the Professor, with that fixed and obstinate gaze which never wandered from Elisabeth's face.
"Oh, hang!^^ muttered Tom between his teeth, his cheeks beginning- to burn.
"I ought to have built it more securely — I ought never to have built it — I ought never to have come here at all," said the Professor humbly and desperately. " It will never bloom again."
His hearers started slig-htly. One of them questioned an instant whether his scientific relative's mind had been un- hinged with the weather-shelter. Then catching an ex- pression in Elisabeth's face, almost wished it had been.
With sudden illumination he stooped down and looked where, under the wreck of meteorology, a mass of towering green lay crushed. The Professor was right ; it would never bloom again.
And then Tom stood up and looked at Elisabeth.
There is a stupid fiction to the effect that above all other things women love to be taken care of. The fact is, there is one thing they love far better — to take care of what they love. There is a second stupider fiction which declares the maternal passion is Nature's device for the protection of the young ; the fact again being that kind Nature — a mother herself — manufactures the baby in his present help- less shape solely for the contentment of the maternal pas- sion. The proof of this is that every loving woman is mother as well as mistress to her beloved, while the real lovers among men have always their infantile needs.
Drawn a little nearer to him, Elisabeth was looking at the Professor precisely as a young mother looks at her child — mirthfully, protectingly, wonderingly, adoringly, comprehending his helplessness and absurdity, and loving him the better for both, thanking him, in fact, for his con- descension in being at once so absurd and so adorable. With that loveliest regard, Elisabeth already caressed the Professor, and Tom's eyes fell before it.
38 LAND OF SUNSHINE.
Not even a scientific lover can remain long" insensible to such a look. An odd awakening expression began to dawn in the Professor's eyes, and he moved in his blind way toward her as it compelled.
' ' B-Elisabeth, " he faltered. * ' Elisabeth I '' he entreated. ** Elisabeth !" he commanded, and perhaps it was the im- petuous wind that blew her to his arms.
Tom turned abruptly and the ground fled under his feet as he went with bent head, something like a rose-thorn pricking in his heart, as reminiscent of rose-sweetness and as healable withal ; and as he went he pulled from his but- tonhole the red rose-bud and dropped it on the ground.
** We will build another weather-shelter, dearest," mur- mured Elisabeth, as the two stood beneath a bending pepper to let the blast sweep by.
*'And plant a new Gloire Lyonnaise,"said the Professor.
*'It was a Pauline, dearest," answered Elisabeth sweetly.
** Indeed," replied the Professor perplexedly, *' you must teach me all the roses, my darling ; your favorites at least."
Elisabeth smiled down at the green disaster.
Then she looked at the Professor. *' Dearest, how is your headache now ? "
The Professor ran his slender hand through his hair ; he looked wonderfully young".
**It is quite gone. I am feeling well. It is wonderful how this electric storm has changed the atmosphere. Elis- abeth I "
Before the laughing wisdom in her eyes all the Profes- sor*s knowelg"e forsook him suddenly. He stretched out his arms to her.
** Elisabeth I " he said again.
And again — perhaps it was the wind.
Eagle Rock.
BY BLANCHM M. BURBANK.
I know a charmed valley where expands The rose in bright perennial blossoming, Where mocking-birds melodious magic sing, And orchards lift white, fragrant, happy hands. And in the midst of these Arcadian lands, As pbised for flight, yet vainly lingering Against its will, like some enchanted thing L/ong turned to stone, a huge gray eagle stands. Perchance old Perseus with the Gorgon's head Surprised this bird with giant wings outspread, And so, forever, by these Western seas, A prisoner of the gods, no more he roves ; Guarding new treasures of Hesperides, Hung mid the verdurous glooms of orange groves.
39
H Early Western History,
BEN AV IDES' S MEMORIAL, 1630.
Translated by Mrs. Edward E. Ayer, annotated by F. W. Hodge, edited, with notes, by Chas. F. Lummis.
TV.
INiTHE month of September, of the past year of 1629, I [was] ministering- provisionally [asistlendo] in the Monastery of Santa Clara aforesaid, in the pueblo called Cap6-o,(36) which was the last and tenth that, to the honor and glory of God Our Ivord, I founded in those conversions. Thither more than usual [elsewhere] these Navajo- Apaches repaired to do havoc. And having seen that I could not catch a one [of them] — to regale him and send him again to his land to tell his Captains that we [wished] to treat for peace — I adventured and determined to send to them twelve Indians of my Christians, men of talent, and spirited. For the which I called the Captains and old men of the pueblo, and communicated to them the desire I had that this peace should be made ; as well to stop so many deaths, as that they might treat and communicate in their gains [g7^an- gerias] ; and the principal [thing] that we might by this road attain their conversion, which was my principal end. All were of this mind [deste parecer] ; and naming one of the twelve for Captain, be- cause he was an Indian of more talent, they gave him the embassy [embaxada] of peace according to their usage. This was an arrow with a feather of colors in place of the flint, and a reed [canuto] full of tobacco* [already] begun to be smoked ; with another feather, which showed on it that which they [my Indians] had smoked. For the arrow was in order that, arriving in sight of the Rancheria and coming nigh, he should shoot that tame [mansa] arrow in signal of peace; and the reed [was] that he should invite them [the Navajos] to smoke, and that he should push [corriesse ; run] this word and peace [message] into the interior. I likewise gave him my [own] word of peace, which was a Rosary for the Captain; and [tell him] that I was desiring to see him, to treat with him [concerning] this peace. And in order that this should have the good effect which it did have, it chanced to be on the evening before [la vispera de]\ the Stigmata of our Father St. Francis (37) — which is on the 17th of Sept. — of the past year of [1]629. And so I told them that they should come to hear Mass on the next day \otro dia, i. e., Sept. 17], whither all the people gathered, petitioning God for a good result, and [peti- tioning] our Father St. Francis that he be patron of it — and so I forthwith dedicated to him that conversion and Province. The Mass having been heard, then — which was sung with all solemnity — these Indians went forth with very great courage \ani'mo'\ and spirit; and having besought of me the benediction, they began their journey [camino; road] from the very church. Godknoweth the constriction
*The familiar "pipe of peace." The prehistoric New Mexico Indians, however, did not have pipes, nor yet a real tobacco. Their "sacred smoke" was a ceremonial cigar- ette, made by ramming- a reed full of an herb called [in Tig-ua] "pi-6n-hle." This ceremonial cigarette is called Huir (weer). It is still used in innumerable Pueblo ceremonials; as an offering- to the Cacique, as a fee to the Fathers of Medicine, as a test for the neophyte being- initiated into an order, etc. As in prehistoric days with the prehistoric " smoke," any cig-arette is to this day a proffer of peace when two strang-e Indians meet. Now, however, it is g-enerally a cigarette of straw paper and " Durham;" and is not first lig-hted and puffed by the man who proffers it, as the ancient Hm'r used to be. See Some St7-anffe Corners of our Country, (the Century Co., N. Y.), Chap, xviii, "The Pra.ying- Smoke." The N. Y. P. t,. version g-ets all this: " A colored feather and a. pipe full of tobacco beginning- to puff , with another feather ■which signified for them to be ready to smoke." Possibly ig-norance could g-o no farther.
t N. Y. P. I/. " Happened to be the day of ;" a ffross ig-norinsr of what " la vispera" means.
very to"] I
40 LAND OF SUNSHINE.
[apreturas] in which my heart was, seeing- the so manifest risk in which I was putting- those Indians. For when one comes out badly from an enterprise, there are never lacking rivals to judge that it was rash; and if it turns out well, few extol it. But always I had entire faith in God our Lord, that He would [^auia de, lit. "had guard them from their enemies. Having arrived, then, in sight of the first Rancheria, the frontier of that untamed and ferocious nation, where w^as the Chief Captain of all those frontiers— and the most valiant [esforfado], a cousin of the Cazique, who governed all of them, who came there alone to raise recruits {hazcr ge7ite\ tado the Christians a notable harm — they fired the arrow which they were carrying [and] making signals with \_lleuatian sefialada]. Which being seen by the enemy, he answered them with another [arrow] of the same sort. Whereupon they went drawing nearer, although slowly and with mistrust. Having arrived, our Captain gave him his message [embaxada], and invited him with the reed of tobacco; and thus also [the Navajo] received my Rosary. And [our man] delivered his message on behalf of his Captains and on my [behalf]. And as [the Navajo] had never seen a Rosary, he asked what it signified that that thread had so many beads [granoSy grains] . Our ambassador answered him, extempore \inopinadamente ; not having had time to think], yet with subtlety, that as they [the Navajos] were many Captains, the Father was sending there to each one of them his word that he would be his friend — a response which much satisfied him [the Navajo]. To the which the [Navajo] Cap- tain answered, giving a very great sigh: *' That it weighed heavy ou him \le pesaua muchd] that they had come to offer him peac«; that, since it was so good a thing, and it was brought to his house, he could not forbear to receive it; but that he was very [much] offended with the Christians, and that on this occasion he had matters ar- ranged in [such] manner that he must have revenged himself very well; but that he received the peace, and wished it." And so he sent the arrow forthwith to his Cacique, and the reed of tobacco; and he remained with my Rosary on [his] neck. And suspicious that this might have some double-dealing, he said to our men, " That, though he gave peace in the name of all, he wished to know from me and from all the Christian Captains personally, if it was true that we gave it; and that therefore he wished to come and see us in our pueblo."
1WAS advised of it by one of [our] men who came post, and I caused that more than one thousand five hundred souls* should go forth to receive him. I awaited him in the Church, the which I ordered them to fix up well, and to light many lights, for it was already night when thev arrived. And because this nation is haughty [soberuia] and mettlesome, it appeared to me [best] to re- ceive this Captain, and those that came with him, in a different wise from [that in which we receive] the other nations. For with them we sit down on the floor [or, ground, suelo^ at the Ijeginning, con- forming with their rude fashion [llaneza], until we teach them more politeness [policia]. The Apache nation being, then, so haughty, it appeared to me [best] to change [this] style ; and so, next the Altar I ordered a chair set upon a rug ; and seated in this, I received him. He came before all the pueblo ; and between the Christian Captains came this Apache Captain, and four other Captains of his [people]. Having entered into the Church and made a prayer at the Altar, the chief Captain of the Christians came to me and kissed my
*Benavides must have drawn on some of the other pueblos, for the population of Santa Clara at this time was probably not arreater than just before the revolt of 1680, when it numbered only 300 persons. At the latter date, by the way, this pueblo had no resident misRiouary, it beinir administered by the padre at San Ildefonso.
EARLY WESTERN HISTORY. 41
feet — a thing- which I did not much oppose, nor indeed was I pre- pared for it. And at his example and [in] imitation, the strang-ers did their part [i. e., the same ; lo propio]. And after having saluted me, the chief [Captain] said that those [our] Captains had gone to offer him peace on my behalf and [on that] of their Captains ; and that he came to know [about] it personally, for greater security. Promptly the chief Captain of the pueblo rose and offered his own bow and arrows to the Apache, saying that there before God, who was on that Altar, and before me, who was His Priest, he gave him those weapons, in earnest [/^] of his word that he never would break [faltaria^ fail] the peace ; and thus he laid them [the weapons] on the Altar. And that he might perceive [echasse de ver] that all said the same, he said to the pueblo, " Do all consent to it ? " [si consent- iaUy etc.] And giving a great shout they answered " Yes ! " [Qt^e 5z] . Promptly the Apache Captain chose from his quiver an arrow, to his thinking the most suitable [with a head] of white flint, and good [and] sharp; and before all said this in a loud voice: "I do not know who is that one that ye call God ; but since ye put him for witness and stability of your word, in pledge [_/^] that infallibly ye must not break it, he ought to be some person of great power and authority, and a good [person]. And so to that God, whosoever he may be, I likewise give my word and faith, in the name of all my people [los mios] , with this arrow in the hands of this Father ; and that for my part and that of my [people] the peace and friendship shall never fail." And receiving from him the arrow, I said to him: ** That if he wished that I should tell him who God was, he would enjoy hearing me, and much more for having given Him his word." And as he said " Yes ! " I declared to him with the briefest words, in his fashion [tnodo; doubtless means here "in his tongue"], who God was — Creator and Lord of all that is created, and that to deliver us from eternal pains He had died upon a Cross — showing it all to him by a painting at the Altar — and that he who should not adore Him, and be baptized, must be damned and go to burn in those eternal pains. And as the word of God is so efficacious, it wrought so in his heart that with a vast [grandioso] ardor [espiritu'] and sigh he turned to all the pueblo and in a very loud voice said to them : "Ah, Teoas, and what envy I have for you that ye have here [one] who teaches you who God is, and things so good — and not us, who live and die traveling through these wilds* [campos^ and mountain- ranges, like deer and jackrabbits. From this moment [desde luego] I say that I adore this God whom this Father tells of ; and now that I know Him, I give peace, and my word to keep it, with the greater force." and with tears from his eyes he knelt to kiss my feet. At the which, I lifted him upf and embraced [him] with all the kind- liness [agasajo^ I could. And immediately all the Christian Cap- tains went to embracing him, and at this opportune time [sazon] I had them peal the bells \repicar; the rapid ringing] and sound the trumpets and clarions \chirimias\X — a thing which pleased him much to hear, since it was the first time. And at once I hung those arrows there upon the Altar, as trophies of the divine word, although by a Minister so humble as I ; and as such \assi\ I made it manifest§ to the pueblo, in order that for all they might give thanks to the di- vine Majesty. Whereupon the Christian Captains carried off the guests to entertain them in their houses, and I regaled them with what I could.
* N. Y. P. L., "Folds !"
t N. Y. P. L., "I rose "! t N. Y. P. Iv. does not translate but prints it "cherennas."
S Manifesti. N. Y. P. I<., "he manifested himself"!
42 LAND OF SUNSHINE.
ON the next day, in the morning, as it was Saturday, when the [bells] pealed for the Mass of Our Lady, at which all the pueblo was present, this Apache Captain came also with the rest of the Christians and with his [companions]. And having- learned that I was named Alonso, he. said that I should g-ive him permission to be named so. I told him that so he should be named when he should be baptized — although from that moment they all called him Don Alonso. I robed myself to begin the Mass with the best vestments [ornamen^os] there were, and he was marveling to see the devotion with which all the people were upon [their] knees praying. Before beginning the Mass, I married some Indians ; and as they [the Navajos] have wives as [many as] they can support, it seemed to him very good that the Christians had no more than one [wife] , and that they promised to remain faithful be- fore God. Then as I wished to begin the Mass, and he was not yet baptized, I told him that until he should be so [baptized] he could not see God in the Mass, and that he should go out to walk with his [com- panions] while I was saying it. To the which he replied : " That he already took himself for a Christian,* and adored God more than all whatsoever [todos quantos] were there, with all his heart ; and that thus he also wished to see Him." And when I replied that he could not until he had been baptized, he ordered his companions that they should go out, but [said] that he must in no wise whatever go out {€71 nitii^una de las maneras aula de salir\ I, to divert him, ordered the singers that they should sing the Salve [Regina] in an organ- chant with all solemnity, and with trumpets and clarions \chirimias\\. And so, in my robes \revestidd\ at the Altar I sang the collect ; and having finished it I sat down in the chair and came back to telling him some words concerning the mystery of the Creation and Redemp- tion, wherewith he remained each time more confirmed in the faith.
SEVERAIy Spanish soldiers had come together to hear Mass ; and he [the Navajo] said that the same peace which he had affirmed with the Teoas, he wished also to establish with the Spaniards. And so to a Spanish Captain who was there he gave an arrow by my hand, in token of [his] word that he would not fail [to keep] the peace. And our Spaniard, drawing his sword from the sheath, gave it likewivse to me, before the Indian as an earnest \en /^] that he gave him peace in the name of God and received his [peace]. And all, as before, was put upon the Altar, offering it to God as judge and witness of that action. Which likewise was celebrated, a second time, with bells, trumpets, and clarions \chirimias\^ . With the which he [the Navajo] remained very consoled, saying : '* That well he perceived [echaua de ver\ the truth of our Holy Catholic Faith, since it was celebrated with so much solemnity ; and that they [his people] lived like brute animals of the wilds {cavtpd].*^ And with this, I sent him with some Christian Captains to their house, and said the Mass to the pueblo — whereat he afterward became [se daua por] very vexed, be cause he wished to have seen God in the Mass.
HE was there, and his [companions], three or four days, hear- ing with devotion and love the things of our Holy Catholic Faith, attentive and noting the contentment [^usio] in which the Christians were living. And in particular there had fixed itself very [deeply] in their soul the fear of the pains of hell, and that in any event they wished to be Christians ; and that they much loved their wives [muq^eres] and children, and them of their nation, and that it would affiict them much that they should go
* N. Y. P. L. omits "ChriHtian,*' and rives no hint what he "considered himself. IN. Y. P. L., "Mnsic."
EARLY WESTERN HISTORY. 43
to hell for not being- Christians, jF*or the which they besoug-ht me much, that I would go to their Rancherias, if only for ten days, to tell their [people] that which they had heard me [say] there — for they were things so marvelous that neither could he manage to tell them, nor would his [people] believe them for his telling- them. At last he left, to return in a Moon and a half (for they count by Moons). And to confirm this peace [pazes], he wished to bring all the women and small children of those neighboring Rancherias, with many dressed buckskins [g-amuzas] and rock alum [piedra aluinbre\ ,* to make a big fair, which should last three days, and they would contract {cobrasse}i\\ great friendship. And from that moment he assured them that they might enter his territory \tierrd\ to hunt, and for what they might wish ; [and] that they should be treated as very [good] friends. And so it was. For before this, at a quarter of a league [from the pueblo] one passed in that direction with much risk, and each day they used to kill Christians ; and after this peace, even the old women used to go X forth for wood in that quarter ; and if they encountered Apaches these gave them a very safe \bue7i\ passage and shared with them the game that they had taken \cazadd\. A Religious of very great spirit is pursuing this conversion and pacification, who will do it with many more advantages than I [had] . This Province must be \tendrd\^ along the frontier, more than 50 leagues ; but it stretches to the West more than 300, and we do not know where it ends. And this Province is the [one] which has given most pain and anxiety \cuidad6\ to New Mexico, as well from [its Indians], being so warlike and valiant, as because there are in it more than two hundred thousand^ souls, [judg- ing] by the times when the Spaniards have seen them going to fight.
COWBOY APACHBS OF THB BUFFAI,0-HBRD. || (38)
HAVING passed then, this Province of the Apaches of Navajo, turning now \yd\ on the right hand to the EJast, there begins the Province of the Vaquero [cowboy] Apaches; the which runs in that direction and returns encompassing the settle- ments \j>oblados\ more than 150 leagues, until it reaches those [settlements] of the Perrillo, where we begin at entering into Ne w Mexico. All this nation and Province sustains itself on cows \vacas\ which they call [cows] of Sibola.^ [They are] like ours [masculine; sc. ganado, cattle] in greatness \g7'andezd\, but very dif- ferent in the form, because it is very short in [the] legs, as if hipped \derrengado\ and very high in hump and chest, [with] horns very small and sharp, straight upward [derechos a lo alto\*'^\ very great manes \crines\ on the forelock \copete\, which obstructs their vision \les tap a la vista], and very curly, and the same on the chins and on the knees. And all [are] of a dark -brown color [hosed], or black and [it is] a marvel [when] one is seen with any white spot. Their meat is more savory and healthful than that of our cows, and the tallow much better. They do not bellow like our bulls, but grunt like hogs. They are not long-tailed, but [the tail is] small and with little wool [lana] on it. The hair [j)elo] is not like that of our cattle, but curly like very fine fleece. Of it are made very! good rugs [xer- guetas], and of the new ones [las nueuas; prob. the new hair], very fine hats [are made], of vicuna, to [all] appearance. Of the skins of the
^^ *N. Y. P. Iv. does not translate this, t N. Y. P. L,., "to visit in." X N. Y. P. ly., ''^the old men go"!
§ Had Benavides given one fiftieth of this number, he would have been approxi- mately rig-ht.
II Or Vaquero Apaches of the Cattle of Sibola. N. Y. P. I*, does not translate.
IT Vacas (or g-anado) de Cibola; 'Buffalo.
** So they are, from sidewise, despite their inward curve. N.Y. P. I/. " straight or high."
44 LAND OF SUNSHINE.
heifers, clothing [ropas] is lined, as if they were [skins] of martens.* I have told so at length of these cattle, because they are in such great number, and so wide-spread that we have not found [the] end of them. And we have information [noiicid] that they run from the Sea of the South [the Pacific] to the Sea of the North [the Atlantic], and so many that they gorge [espesan] the fields. These cattle alone were enough to make a Prince very powerful, if there could be, or might offer, a plan whereby they might be brought out [se sacara] to other lands [paries]. Troops there are of more than forty thousand bulls to [all] appearances; without there being among them one single cowf; because they always go separate until rutting time. They are not cattle that let themselves be rounded-up [co^er en rodeos]^, tho' as a means [pi^y lit. footing] they take among them [some] of our tame cattle. And so, at the time of calvingg, the Spaniards go to catch the little heifers {terneritas] and bring them up with she-goats. As these cattle are so many, and shed or change their hair [pelleja, for pelechd] every year, that wool remains in the fields, and the airs keep drifting it up (van arrimandd] to trees, or into sundry ravines [que- bradas], and in such quantity that it could make many rich — and it all is lost. (39)
BY these cattle, then, all these Vaquero Apaches sustain them- selves ; for the which they go craftily to their watering- places, and hide themselves in the trails, painted with red- lead | and stained with the mud of that same earth ; and stretched in the deep trails which the cattle have made, when the [cattle] pass they employ the arrows which they carry. And as [these] are dull {triste] cattle, though very savage and swift, when they feel themselves wounded they let themselves fall after a few paces. And afterward the [Indians] skin them and carry off the hide, the tongues and tenderloins, and the sinews to sew [with] and to make strings for their bows. The hides they tan [adouan]^ in two ways ; some leave the hair on them, and they remain like a plush velvet, and serve as bed and as cloak in the summer.** Others they tan without the hair, and thin them down, of which they make their tents and other things after their usage [d su usanza]. And with these hides they trade through all the land and gain their living. And it is the general dress [veshiario] as well among Indians as Spaniards, who use it as well for dress as for service as bags, tents, cuirasses, shoes [ca/fado]j\ a^nd everything that is needed [se o/rece]. And although each year so many cattle are killed, they not only do not diminish but are each day more, for they gorge the plains [campos] and appear interminable. These Indians, then, go forth through the neighboring Provinces to trade and traffic with these hides. At which point [adonde] 1 cannot refrain from telling one thing, somewhat incredible, howsoever ridiculous. And it is
♦ See the flounderinsr of the N. Y. P. L. version.
t Sadly botched by the N. Y. P. L. version.
t Rodto Is the technical Spanish word for " round-up"— still used amooff South- western cattlemen. N. Y. P. L. " Enclosure." Probably Benavides was rijfht, in his time. After they acquired horses, the Plains Indians often rounded-up bands of buffalo, which huddled tojfethcr until dispatched. Such a round-up is the subject of one of Catlin's paintinjrs— ihoujf h this fact is quoted not as proof but incidentally.
I Paricion. N. Y. P. L., ** Breedings," a mistake of some months.
il Probably hematite. H N. Y. P. L., " Rip in two ways " !
♦♦ Almost beyond question, there is a misprint In the punctuation here. The period should come after "cloak," both for climatic and ethnolosric sense. The In- dians did not need the "plush-velvet" robes for "cloaks in summer"" As a matter of fact, the winter robes, with their heavy fur, were tanned with the hair on ; the summer hides, thin after shedding, were scraped. And so probably Benavides meant to say— "In summer, they tan others without the hair."
ttN. Y. P. L., "breeches"!
EARLY WESTERN HISTORY. 45
that when these Indians g"0 to trade and traffic, the entire Rancherias go, with their wives [mu^eres] and children, who live in tents made of these skins of buffalo [Sibola] , very thin and tanned ; and the tents they carry loaded on pack-trains [reguas] of dogs, harnessed up with their little pack-saddles ; and the dogs are medium sized. And they are accustomed to take five hundred dogs in one pack-train, one in front of the other ; and the people carry their merchandise [thus] loaded, which they barter for cotton cloth* and for other things which they lack. (40)
THIS Province of the Vaquero Apaches hems (as has been said) the settlements of New Mexico along its frontier [for] more than 150 leagues, on the side of the East, and extends in the same direction more than a hundred. All of it [is] most thickly settled [podladissima] with rancherias of the tents aforesaid, and infinite people. Our Lord hath been pleased that their conversion and pacification should be commenced, by the good treat- ment [or, conduct, buen tratd\ and kindness which the Religious prac- tice [toward] them in the curacies \dotrinas\ roundabout [cirainue- cinas\. And their Chief Captains having heard say that the Spaniards in the town [villa] of Santa F^ had the Mother of God— which was an Image in sculpturef of the Translation [Transitd] of the Virgin Our Lrady, which I had carried there, and it was well adorned in a chapel — they came to see her, and became very devoted [aficionados] to her, and promised her to be Christians. And in particular the chief
f mayor] of them addressed her with much devotion, in his tongue modo ; style]. Therefore the Demon, seeing that by this road he was being deprived of the empire which he enjoyed, made use of a fraud of the [sort] that he is wont [to use] in his own defense, taking as a means the cupidity of our Spanish Governor (41). Who to make slaves, to send to sell in New Spain, sent a valiant Indian Captain, an enemy of that party, and he was to bring him [as many] pieces [piecas ; of coin] as he should be able. This infernal minister happened [acerto] to go to the rancheria of the Chief Captain who had given his word to the Virgin to be a Christian, with all his [people]. And fought with him, and slew him and much people — for he [the slave-hunter] carried many Indian warriors [Indios de guerrd] with him. And as that Captain [who was] slain had afhis neck a Rosary which I had given him, he put it forward, begging him by it and by that Mother of God that he would not kill him. And it did not suffice to [make] the tyrant relinquish exercising his cruelty. And he brought some captives to the Governor, who, though he did not wish to receive them, for the uproar which the deed caused, and wished to hangt him whom he [himself] had sent, his cupidity was well recognized. The which caused all this Province to rise in rebellion, although (God be blessed) we are reclaiming it anew, and the Indians already know who is at fault, and that God ought to be adored above everything.
WITH the aforesaid, it appears to me this Apache nation will be comprehended. The which (as has been said) hems the hundred leagues which the settlements of New Mexico in- habit along the banks of the Rio del Norte ; which are [the "nations" of the] Teoas, Tanos, Hemes, Tioas, Piros, Tompiros, and Queres. And on the outer border, to the East and
*Cotton was cultivated in abundance and spun and woven into excellent fabrics by the Hopi or Moqui before the Spaniards first came in the 16th century. They are still recog-nized as the most expert cotton weavers among- all the Pueblos, and larg-e quantities of their textile products, particularly dance paraphernalia and women's mantas, are bartered among- other tribes.
t Imogen de bulto. N. Y. P. I<., " a large painting^'' !
XAhorcar. N. Y. P. I^. " Put to death."
46 LAND OF SUNSHINE.
West and to the North and to the South, it [the Apache "nation"] spreads out in places so much that we have not found an end to it. The climate [temple^ is like that which we have reported of our Christian settlements — cold to an extreme in the winter, and hot to an extreme in the summer. [All] possible diligence is being- made for their [the Apaches'] conversion. God knoweth when their [or His ; su] hour shall arrive.
MIRACUI^OUS CONVBRSION OF THE XUMANA (42) NATION.
LEAVING, then, all this Western part, and going forth from the town [villa] of Santa F^, [the] center of New Mexico, which is in 37 degrees [north lat.], traversing the Apache nation of the Vaqueros for more than a hundred and twelve leagues to the East, [one] comes to hit upon the Xumana nation ; which since its conversion was so miraculous, it is just to tell how it was. Years back, when a Religious named Fray luan [Juan] de Salas, (43) was traveling [andando] , occupied in the conversion of the Tompiros
and Salineros Indians, where are the greatest salt-ponds [or,
salines ; sali/ias]* in the world, which on that side border upon these Xumanas — there was war between them. And when the Father Fray luan de Salas went back for the Salineros, the Xumanas said that people who went back for the poor were good [people] ; and so they became fond [aficionados] of the Father, and begged him that he would go to live among them. And each year they came to seek him. And as he was likewise occupied with the Christians on ac- count of being [por ser] an interpreter [lengua ; lit. tongue] and a very good Minister, and not having enough Religious,! I kept putting off [jui enlreleniendo]\ the Xumanas who were asking for him,:|: until God should send more laborers. As He sent them in the past year of [16] 29 ; inspiring Your Majesty to order the Viceroy of New Spain that he send us thirty Religious. Whom the F. [ather] F.[ray] Estevan de Perea, who was their Custodian, brought. And so we immediately dispatched the said Father [Salas] , with another, [his] companion, who is the F. [ather] F.[ray] Diego Ivopez ; whom the selfsame Indians went with as guides [ivaji guiando]. And before tHey went, [we] asked the Indians to tell us the reason why they were with so much concern petitioning us for baptism, and for Religious to go to indoctrinate them ? They replied that a woman like that one
whom we had there painted which was a picture of the
Mother I/uisa de Carrion used to preach to each one of them
in their [own] tongue, [telling] them that they should come to sum- mon the Fathers to instruct and baptize them, and that they should not be slothful [about it]. And that the woman who preached to them was dressed precisely [ni mas, ni menos; neither more nor less] like her who was painted there ; but that the face was not like that one, but that she [their visitant] was young and beautiful [mofa y hertnosa] . And always whenever Indians came newly from those nations, looking upon the picture and comparing it among them- selves, they said that the clothing was the same but the face [was] not, because the [face] of the woman who preached to them was [that] of a young and beautiful girl.
[TO BE CONTINUED.]
♦They are blar, shallow pools. N. Y. P. L. translates "The biggtst salt-works in the world"!
tThese clattses, like many others, are entirely omitted from the N. Y. P. L. ver- sion.
tBenavides, it will be remembered, was Custodian of all the missions, and was the one applied to. N. Y. P. I«. version srets this clause " he was eniertaining the Xu- manas"!
EARLY WESTERN HISTORY. 47
NOTES BY FREDERICK WEBB HODGE-
35. Navajo. — The origin of the name Navajo is not known with certainty. Benavides gives the meaning- "great planted fields," which does not seem appropriate, especially as this popular name (they call themselves N'de, or Dene, " people") is given as if derived from the language of the strictly agricultural Pueblos. Many sug- gestions regarding the origin of the name have been advanced, most of them having reference to a similar Spanish word navdja, "knife;" but Benavides's definition, whether right or wrong, shows that this interpretation is not tenable.
The original home of the Navajos extended from the San Juan mountains in Colorado to the latitude of the San Mateo mountains in New Mexico, and from the vicinity of Jemez pueblo on the east to the San Francisco mountains in Arizona in the west. They now oc- cupy a large reservation in northwestern New Mexico, northeastern Arizona^ and southwestern Utah, but many of their number live be- yond its borders. While the Navajos are regarded as a division of the Athapascan family, there is no doubt that the tribe is composed largely of people of other stocks who have either been voluntarily^ adopted in considerable bodies as clans, or else captured during the numerous raids against weaker tribes, which made their name dreaded, especially by the sedentary Indians of the Rio Grande, for more than two and a half centuries. At the time of the coming of the Spaniards the Navajos were insignificant. No mention is made of them by Coronado's chroniclers, although two side trips were made in 1540 through a part of their country. From traditionary evidence, substantiated by historical data, it has been found that the Navajos were very limited in number at the time of the Discovery, and that the wholesale adoption took place after the middle of th^e sixteenth century. Their name first appears in 1626 as Apaches de Nabaju, in the writings of Zarate-Salmeron, thus antedating Bena- vides by only four years. All efforts to christianize the Navajos proved failures. The only attempt that gave promise of success was made in 1746 by Padre Juan Menchero, who visited the Navajo country and induced several hundred to settle at Cebolleta, now a Mexican town north of I^aguna; but the enterprise came to an end within a couple of years. In 1749 Menchero made another attempt, reestablishing the Cebolleta mission and founding another at Kncinal, directly north of Acoma, at what is now the I^aguna village ot Pun- yekia; but in the spring of 1750 these missions were abandoned by the two friars in charge, the Indians not taking very kindly to pueblo life. In 1804 the Navajos themselves asked that missionaries be sent to them at Cebolleta, but the request did not meet with favor. The principal event in Navajo history since the United States took pos- session of the southwest, was the Navajo war of 1861-1864 — which had the usual result. Most of those who were not killed were taken to the Bosque Redondo, in the valley of the Pecos, but were returned to their former home in 1867, when they numbered about 9,000. The inaccurate United States census of 1890 gave the tribe a population of 17,204. They are now estimated at 20,500. The Navajos are noted for their blankets of native manufacture on hand-looms — an industry doubtless introduced among them by adopted Pueblos, and greatly developed through the acquirement of sheep (now numbering about a million head) originally stolen from Indian and Spanish flocks. They are also adept in the manufacture of silver jewelry and other ornaments — an art derived of course from the Spaniards.
36. In Oct., 1895, I was informed by a viejo of Santa Clara that the original "Capo-o", K'ha-p6-o was a few hundred yards northwest of the present village ; thence its inhabitants moved to the Puye mesa on account of Navajo inroads, but were finally induced by the
^ LAND OF SUNSHINE.
Spaniards to build the present town. Bandelier fixes the date of the erection of the church at Santa Clara at 1760. This is close to the aboriginal name since applied to the pueblo, the strict form being K*ha-p<5-o, as in the preceding note. It is said to mean " where the rose-bushes grow near the water."
From the fact that Benavides remained in New Mexico for some months after his successor, Estevan de Perea, arrived with the 30 priests and lay brothers in the spring of 1629, and that various mis- sions were established during the latter part of the year named, it is not positively known which of the ten monasteries Benavides claims to have actually founded. Excluding that at Santa F6, there were ten churches in the province in 1617, while in 1630 Benavides either reports directly or else intimates that there were twenty-three mon- asteries excluding those of Santa F6 and Acoma, and the two at Zuni.
The ten pueblo churches in 1617 were at San Geronimo de los Taos, Nuestra Senora de los Angeles de Pecos, San Ildefonso, San Diego de Jemez, San Jos^ de Jemez, Santo Domingo, San Felipe, Santa Cruz de Galisteo, San Francisco de Sandia, and Santa Clara. Of the new monasteries, therefore, we are only reasonably certain of Sen- ecii, Socorro, Sevilleta, Isleta, Santa Clara, a third Queres pueblo (probably Cochitf), a third Tehua pueblo (probably San Juan), and Pi- curfs. Perhaps other of the pueblos besides Santa Clara.which con- tained churches in 1617 may have had no monasteries when Bena- vides took charge, while on the other hand, the missions of Acoma, Zuni, and the pueblos of the Salinas may have been regarded by that custodian as established under his supervision, as assuredly were the two at Jemez which had been abandoned.
37. Stigmata of St. Francis.— This has reference to the remark- able discovery, after the death of St. Francis of Assisi (the founder of the Franciscan Order), of the five wounds of Christ on his body which were believed to have had a miraculous origin during a vision while St. Francis was in solemn meditation on Mount Averno. It has also been asserted that the wound in the side sometimes bled, and that through the wounds of the feet there appeared to be nails that could not be extracted, although the attempt was made. Several witnesses testified to the occurrence, including Pope Alexander IV, who claimed to have seen the wounds also before the death of the saint. This supposedly divine infliction, being the first of its kind, resulted in awarding the Franciscan Order unusual prestige.
38. The name Cibola was first employed in 1539 by Fray Marcos de Nizza who learned of it as the name of the ** province " of the Zuni Indians in the language of one of the Piman tribes of what is now northern Sonora or southern Arizona. Later it was applied by this Franciscan to the pueblo of Hawikuh of the Zunis, the principal and only one of the seven seen by him, and that to which Coronado gave the name Granada. Bearing in mind the Relacion of Cabeza de Vaca, who with his companions made that first wonderful journey across the buffalo plains of Texas between 1528 and 1536, the name Cibola for a time became the designation of the then practically unknown and otherwise unnamed region of the north, and, naturally enough (when the illusion concerning the Seven Cities of Cibola — as the Zuni pueblos were called — had been dispelled), Cibola, Sibola, Zivolo, etc., became the name by which was known the most numer- ous as well as the most noteworthy beast (the Bison Americanus) which inhabited the area covered by the marvelous explorations which followed. The buffaloes seen by Cabeza de Vaca were not the very first to greet the eyes of a Spaniard, however, for it is recorded that Moptezuma had among other animals in his zoological collection a ** Mexican bull" which was said to be ** a wonderful composition of
EARLY WESTERN HISTORY. 49
divers animals ; it has crooked shoulders, with a hunch on its back like a camel ; its flanks dry, its tail large, and its neck covered with hair like a lion : it is cloven footed, its head armed like that of a bull, which it resembles in fierceness, with no less strength and agility." EJven the briefest sketch of the bison from the date of these early references to the settlement of the Great West, when the fate of the untold millions of these noble beasts became sealed through the systematic, relentless, cruel, and shameful slaughter still fresh in mind as a blot on our national history, cannot here be given owing to limitations of space. Yet a word on the importance of the animal to the tribes of the plains seems necessary. No writer, early or recent, has more tersely or completely covered the ground in this direction than the author of the Relacion Postrera de Sivola, translated for the first time by Winship. He says : ** The mainten- ance or sustenance of these Indians comes entirely from the cows (bison), because they neither sow nor reap corn. With the skins they make their houses, with the skins they clothe and shoe them- selves, of the skins they make rope, and also of the wool ; from the sinews they make thread, with which they sew their clothes and also their houses ; from the bones they make awls ; the dung serves them for wood, because there is nothing else in that country ; the stomachs serve them for pitchers and vessels from which they drink; they live on the flesh, they sometimes eat it half roasted and warmed over the dung, at other times raw; .... they drink the blood just as it leaves the cows; .... they have no other means of livelihood." ^\\e Relacion might have added that the skins also provided traveling-bags, shields, and coffins. Can we point, in the history of mankind, to another animal that has served every purpose of food and drink, clothing, shelter, fuel ? Ivittle wonder, then, that the passing of the buffalo meant also the passing of the Indian hunter, who thenceforth must be forced between fixed bounds, usually on lands that his white neighbor had little use for, an abused, dissatisfied dependent, whose principal object in life was to be present on "issue day." The practical disappearance of the bison was due to a wantonness that would scarcely have been pos- sible without the aid of the railroads. The completion of the Union Pacific in 1869 divided the herds for ever, and soon the systematic slaughter began ; hundreds of thousands were killed for their tongues alone. During the years from 1872 to 1874 the railroads across the plains shipped 1,378,359 hides, while the total number of buffaloes killed by the whites during this period numbered over three millions — all of these from the southern herd. By 1887 the only buffalo remaining in the southern plains were a herd of 200 in north- western Texas. In the winter of that year, two parties, one headed by a certain lyce Howard, attacked them, killing 52, evidently for the pittance there was in it. The northern herd went the same way — but by different roads. It is estimated that for fifty years prior to the building of the Northern Pacific in 1881-82, from 50,000 to 100,000 hides were annually shipped down the Missouri river to railroad points. In 1881 a hundred thousand buffalo were butchered by men employed at so much per month; by 1882 there were 5,000 white butchers and skinners on the northern range ; in 1883 a single herd of 75,000, as if regardful of their fate, crossed the Yellowstone and headed for Canada ; but the butchers and skinners were on their track — one-fifteenth of their number reached the Dominion, but these did not last long. The rest of the story is known. The various ** Societies for the Prevention," etc., came forward, but it was too late. Robes were bringing fancy prices ; the meat of a stray bison was now worth shipping; later the bones were found to be market- able— and perhaps it were well that these thousands of tons of
50 LAND OF SUNSHINE.
bleaching- reminders of our shame were gathered and g-round into fertilizer.
39. The buffalo beg-an to shed in the beg-inning of spring, the pro- cess continuing until about the first of October. The Indians of Vir- ginia and New England, in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries, made garments of buffalo hair, and the Comanches and Otoes, at least, made reatas of the same material. Little use of it was made by the whites, owing mainl3'^ to the lack of available sources of supply. In 1821 the Red River colonists of Canada organized the "Buffalo Wool Company" in expectation of making a fortune. Skilled workmen with the necessary machinery were imported, but the supply of " wool" was found to be inadequate, and after it was discovered that the comijany could get in England only 4^. dd. per yard for their product which cost £2 10s. to manufacture, the indus- try came to an end.
40. By means of the travois, or travail, of the Plains tribes and early voyageurs. It consisted of two lodge or tent poles, their for- ward ends harnessed shaft-fashion, to either side of the dog (or the horse, since there have been horses), the free ends dragging on the ground behind. A netted receptacle was often fastened from pole to pole, about midway, to hold camp equipage, provisions, babies and what-not. Before the coming of the Europeans, the dog and turkey were the only domesticated animals possessed by the Western tribes. There were no horses, cattle, sheep, goats, burros, swine, cats. The most startling change in Indian history came with the introduction, by Europeans, of the domestic animals, metals and fire-arms
41. Whether the governor alluded to was Don Francisco Manuel de Silva Nieto or his predecessor Don Felipe Zotilo, we are left to surmise. Probably it was not Silva Nieto ; for he, with 20 soldiers, personally accompanied Fathers Romero and Munoz to their far mis- sion in the West. Two of the longest and most beautiful inscrip- tions on El Morro or "Inscription Rock" are by Gov. Silva Nieto, July 29 and Aug. 9, 1629. For photographic facsimiles, and trans- lation of these inscriptions, see L/ummis's Strange Corners of Our Country, pp. 177, 178. Zotilo served as governor from about 1621 to 1628, when he was succeeded by Silva Nieto. Whichever was the guilty official, his project was in flagrant violation of the lyaws of the Indies, which stipulated as early as 1526 that no Indian should be enslaved, or sold or bartered for purposes of slavery. Everything in the context indicates that Zotilo must have been the offender ; and Gov. Silva Nieto's expedition in which he "carried the faith" (vide the inscription) seems to have been one of the means by which, says Benavides, "we are reclaiming it anew."
42. JuMANOS. — These Indians have been one of the puzzles of American history and ethnology, for although intimately known during more than a century, their linguistic affinity and final distri- bution may never be definitely determined. They were first seen, though not named, by Cabeza de Vaca, about the beginning of 1536, in the territory between the Conchas and the Rio Grande, in Chihua- hua, where they were found also in 1582 by Espejo, who called them Jumanas and Patarabueyes, and stated that they numbered 10,000 in five villages. Espejo's estimates of population are always greatly exaggerated. In 1598 Oiiate referred to them also as Rayados, on ac- count of their custom of slashing or otherwise striating their faces, and later wrote of a northern division occupying the villages of Atripuy. Genabey, Quelotetrey, and Patastrey, "con sus subgetos," situated xn the vicinity of the Salinas east of the Rio Grande in the present New Mexico. To these pueblos Fray Francisco de San Miguel was assigned as priest, but the field was so vast and the mis- sionary laborers so few that aside from a few baptisms it is not prob-
EARLY WESTERN HISTORY. 51
able that any active steps were taken toward their spiritual welfare until Benavides's time. The first actual missionary that the Jumanos had was that beautiful character, Francisco Ivetrado, who was a mem- ber of Perea's band of thirty. How long I^etrado remained among- the Jumanos is not known. It was probably not more than a year. L/earning that the Zunis were still unconverted (Figueredo and his companions having disappeared from history after their assignment to Zuiii), lyctrado asked and was granted permission to go among them. On Feb. 22, 1632 — a hundred years to the day before Wash- ington was born — he was murdered by these natives while on his knees with his crucifix clasped to his breast. This event occurred at Hawikuh, already famous in New Mexican history. For the efforts of Salas and his compadres among the Jumanos, see the following note. The southern band are practically lost to sight after Otiate's time, while the history of the New Mexican group began. No author is more explicit than Benavides, yet the information which he gives is meager enough. The Piro and Tigua pueblos of the Salinas were abandoned on account of Apache inroads about 1672 ; then followed the Pueblo revolt of 1680 in which the Jumanos did not participate. While the rebellion was still in progress, i. e., Oct. 20, 1683, a delega- tion of some 200 of the tribe visited 5)1 Paso, then the seat of the New Mexican government, and petitioned for missionaries, stating that thirty-two nations were waiting for baptism, because, being on the point of a great battle and anxious because thej' were few, while the enemy numbered over 30,000, they invoked the aid of the cross as their forefathers had done when they defeated their enemies and gained much spoils of war without losing a man. The relation of this miracle proved to be only a ruse that the Spaniards might be in- duced to accompany the Jumanos across the Conchas to their territory without fear of the Apaches who were blocking the way. Neverthe- less, the friars believed the story, and three of them accompanied the Indians back to their home, but found so many Jumanos and Te jas (Texas : specifically the Asenai) that they returned to Fl Paso for assistance. The matter was referred to the Viceroy, who in turn presented it to the King's treasurer, but orders came to defer mission- ary work and devote attention to the reconquest of the province. Not- withstanding, there is evidence that some missionaries (probably the party composed of Nicolas L-opez, Juan de Zavaleta, and Antonio Acebedo) went to the Jumano country in 1684 by way of the Conchas (Acebedo remaining at the Junta de los Rios), thence on through the plains across the Pecos and into the Jumano country of southern Texas. It has already been observed (see the Salas note) that the Jumanos covered a wide range in the latter part of the seventeenth century, extending at least from Arkansas river in Kansas to south- ern Texas. Under the name of Chaumans they were found in Texas in 1687, by the members of Iva Salle's ill-fated expedition — but the references to the tribe about this period are far too numerous to men- tion, and but few of them shed light on its characteristics. With the opening of the eighteenth century the Comanches — an offshoot of the Shoshones of the north — made their appearance in the southern plains, having drifted with the buffalo, and alternately traded with and preyed on the Pueblos, at the same time widening the breach be- tween them and the Jumanos. During the eighteenth century the latter are frequently mentioned, but, as before, they were here today, there tomorrow, leading the life of veritable nomads. Once or twice after I^a Salle's time they are recorded in the French history of the western Mississippi drainage, and as late as the middle of the nine- teenth century were mentioned in connection with the Kiowas, since which time no reference to them seems to ha.ve been made in literature. Bandelier in 1890 found a trace of the Jumanos dating about 1855,
52 LAND OF SUNSHINE.
when they were living- in Texas *' not far from the Comanches." In 1895 the present writer was informed by the venerable Jos^ Miguel P^co (Zu-w^-ng'), a native of Pecos, then residing- at Jemez, but since deceased, that he remembered having seen some Hum^nesh, as he called them, many years ago. They lived in tepees, he said, not in houses, a month's journey from the Rio Grande, in the '* Sierra Ju- manos." They differed somewhat from the Comanches whom his people called Ko-mS^nt'-sesh.
43. As Benavides himself refers to the labors of Fray Juan de Salas in New Mexico during "years back," and as there is no men- tion of this friar by Perea, it is evident that Fray Juan went to New Mexico at least as early as the first part of Benavides's custodian- ship. In 1629 he resided in the monastery which he had erected at San Antonio de la Isleta, of which pueblo he became the first mis- sionary, probably in 1622, whence he ministered also to the Indians of the Salinas, including the Jumanos, until 1629, when the arrival of the thirty new missionaries under Perea, as Benavides relates, en- abled the establishment of independent missions in that region. On July 22, 1629, some 50 Jumanos appeared at Isleta, where the custo- dian (probably Perea) was then staying, to renew their oft-repeated request for resident missionaries, which had always been refused on account of the rapidly diminishing force. It is this visit to which Benavides refers. Fray Diego Lopez, Salas's companion on the journey to the Jumanos, was probably also in New Mexico when Perea arrived; although among the followers of that custodian were Fr. Thomas de San Diego y Fr. Diego de la Fuente, and Fr. Diego de San L<ucas, all of whom were assigned to the *' great town of the Hu- manas and those called Pyros and Tonpiros." It is hardly believable that the Jumanos ever occupied a typical pueblo in this region, or in- deed, anywhere else. Their habitat, or tribal range, was at this time some 112 leagues or 295 miles eastward from the Rio Grande, as Ben- avides says, and it is more likely that the mission of San Isidore (probably never designed to be permanent) was established at one of the Piro pueblos (possibly Tabird) for their benefit. However this may have been, the mission of San Isidore did not exist long, nor did Salas remain with the Jumanos for an extended period, since in 1632, acompanied by Diego Ortego and a small guard, he again visited the Jumanos on a stream appropriately called the Nueces, which in 1650 was said to flow southeastwardly for fifty leagues through the country of the Kscanjaques and Aijoas. This must have been Arkansas river within the present Kansas limits. In 1643 Salas was priest at Quarrd or Cuaraf, and about 1650 Ger6nimo de la Ivlana assumed charge of this mission, possibly on account of Salas's death. At the time of the destruction of the pueblos of the Salinas by the Apaches, about the year 1672, the New Mexican Jumanos re- sided fifteen leagues eastward of those towns and were administered by the priest at Quarrd. The name of the Jumano settlement is preserved in the '* Mesa Jumanes " of present-day maps. See the note on the Jumano tribe.
S3
Accurate California Statistics.
GjTTis too common a habit to g-uess at statistics, instead of compiling- J them — and always to gniess large enoug-h. Accurate ofl&cial fig- ^ ures are at best hard to collate; particularly in the Western states, where our political machinery does not yet include Bureaus of Statistics, and the other departments are sometimes too busy, and sometimes too lazy, to be of much service to the statistician. For instance, if there is any man alive who knows how many churches there are in California, of how many denominations, total member- ship and total valuation of property, he will confer a favor by making the information public. And so in a score of items the student wishes to know. Who can tell how many miles of irrigation ditches there are in the State, what they represent as investment, how many acres they serve, and other points in the very spinal marrow of our prosperity ? No one, perhaps, this side of God.
Having discovered in bitterness the difficulty of obtaining, for other work on California, tabulated statements which were more than hope- ful estimates and of reasonable modernness, the editor purposes to give a page or so of the magazine regularly to accurate statistics, and to occasional comparative analyses of these statistics. 1 Thus in time there will be a valuable mass for reference.
Some valuable tabulations are given in the annual review (1900) of the California Fruit Grower, San Francisco ; some by U. S. census bulletins already issued for the census of 1900 ; and some in various state reports — but as a rule they are not collated in the form most convenient for reference and comparison; and even the following simple tabulations have involved the consultation of more than 60 authorities.
CAWFORNIA STATE GAIN IN POPUI.ATION, 1850-1900.
U-S- Poniiiatinn Increase.
Census. Population. Number. Percent.
1850 92,597
1860 379,994 287,397 310.3
1870 560,247 180,253 47.4
1880 864,694 304,447 54.3
1890 1,208,130 343,436 39.7
1900 1,485,053 276,923 22.9
Average gain of the United States, 1890-1900, not quite 21.0.
Population of California per square mile, 1900, 9.05.
INCREASE PER CENT. 1880-1890 (u. S. CENSUS, 1890).
Cal. Whole U. S.
Manufactures 84 74
Total value lands, fences, and buildings, farms. 166 32
Number farms 47 14
Acreage farms 29 15
Value farm implements 74 25
Value live stock 70 46
Total value property 88 40
Value per capita 35 19
Total value farm produce 46 11
54 LAND OF SUNSHINE.
STATISTICS OF EDUCATION IN CAWFORNIA.
(Report of U. S. Commissioner of Education— 1897-98.)
Most of these fig-ures are greatly increased since 18%, upon data of which year the
report is based. _ . , T.T 1, No. of Pupils Value of
Schools. Number, teachers, enrolled. property.
State Normal 4 74 1,892 760,000
Private Normal 3 8 76
Public Hi^h Schools 96 478 12,784 2,056,965
Private High Schools and Acade- mies 63 293 6,735
14 City School Systems — in cities
over 8,000 274 2,571* 113,439 9,588,811
6 in Cities between 4,000 and 8,000 6 183 7,183
Free Public Kindergartens 65 136 4,580
Private Kindergartens 87 146 2,927
Common Schools 3,644 7,432t 259,459 17,549,468
State Institute for Deaf and Blind 1 15 171 300,000
State Institute for Feeble-minded
Children 1 22 550 250,000
Public Day School for Deaf 1
Private Day School for Deaf 3
There were also 20,620 pupils in Private Schools.
Average number secondary pupils enrolled u. S.— Total— California per 1000 population 8.60 11.06
Average number students in higher education 1.98 3.15
Average monthlv pay of teachers in public schools ' $45.00 $77.00
Manual training is taught in the public schools of San Francisco, Los Angeles, Oakland, Stockton, San Diego, Fresno, Santa Barbara and Santa Cruz.
CURED FRUIT OUTPUT, 1889. (Exccpt Raisius and Prunes.) Pounds
Peaches 34,800,000
Apricots 11,600,000
Apples 5,900,000
Figs 5,800,000
Plums 3,360,000
Nectarines 840,000
Grapes, 440,000
Total in 1899 66,440,000
Total in 1891 40,210,000
eKOWTH OF FRUIT AND NUT SHIPMENTS IN 10 YEARS. (In tOQS Of 2,000 pOUnds).
1890 1899
Fresh Deciduous Fruit 34,043 96,950
Oranges and L,emons 34,219 131,917
Cured Fruit, including Prunes 32,310 86,930
Raisins 20,265 36,010
Canned Fruits and Vegetables 40,069 75,240
Walnuts and Almonds 789 6,609
Kind FARM ANIMALS, JAN. 1, 1898.t Number Value
Horses 417,3% $12,085,909
Mules : 56,898 2,180,836
Milch Cows 342,392 9,809,531
Other Cattle 810,615 15,328,334
Sheep 2,589,935 5,789,915
Swine 467,676 1,906,247
Totals 4,684,912 $47,096,772
No figures for poultry given.
* Includes 166 snpervisinflr officers. t Male 1,407; female 6,025. Assessor's fiffures, notoriously too small.
55
Te Deum Laudamus.
BY EUGENE MANLOVE RHODES.
Our foes are fallen — are fallen — the victory is to force !
Crushed the cowards who barred the path of our civilizing course.
Scorned are their craven scruples — the dogs of war are freed,
And feeble folk shall bear our yoke to serve us in our need.
The coward's plea that all men are free we have proven of little
worth, And our empire's mighty arms shall stretch to the ends of all the
earth. The fools who dared withstand us — bound to our chariot wheels Shall dream in vain they may break our chain and know how a free
man feels. In vain they cry to the pitiless sky — there is no one to hear, But the victor's song as it swelleth strong shall chill their hearts
with fear ; Savage and brown we shall beat them down ; crouched at our feet at
length, Bondmen all they shall bide in thrall to the white man's giant
strength. With a traitor's shame we shall brand his name, who, in his native
land. Presumptuous, 'gainst our conquering flag raised his rebellious band; And the women of the vanquished shall share the vanquished's
shame, And bear the white man's children — to lack the white man's name.
Our foes are fallen — are fallen ! Proud to mine ear there comes
The blaring of the bugles — the bawling of the drums.
Who prates of right or justice now ? Our destiny is war !
Where glory waits at the sunset gates we bear our flag afar ;
And none but recreants falter, blind, stubborn, lost to shame.
To follow where its folds shall lead to Power and Wealth and Fame !
Broken the spell of idle dreams left from our outworn past.
And the gyves that bound our mighty limbs are snapped in twain at
last. The words of Christ our armies spread and bid His Church increase — The kind and gentle, the meek and mild, the lowly Prince of Peace — For the holy name of Freedom and the Glory of our God, The blood of I^uzon's children smokes up from Luzon's sod ; And o'er their swollen corpses the vultures wheel in glee Who dared to die for the ancient lie that God made allimen Free;!
Tuluosa, N. M.
56
THB
GRBY
MOTHER.
OUR
'PRBNTICB DAYS
The Den is dim this month. It is at best but room for the Irion's passing thought; and today his thought paces up and down a narrow bound. He has just closed the eyes of one he hoped should one day do that office for him. He has just surrendered to the incorrupting flames the fair husk of what had been his tawny-maned cub ; the lad he would have made a Man ; the lad who was a Man at six — an old- fashioned, gentle, fearless little knight, whose first thought was always for others ; whose last words, in the agony for breath, were ** Yes, please ;" a lad so big-eyed and slender and girlish-sweet that one half-thought Nature had misdressed him, until one noted that his undefiant eye never fell before any eye, nor ever wavered ; that he never lied nor dodged, nor shirked his fault, nor skulked from its consequence. And when an 18-year-old bully made to duck his pet kitten, he went white and snatched a club and fairly awed the burly tormentor off the field. L<ove, we are born into; but to win respect is victory for a lifetime, long or short. It is well with the boy. But the L/ion had not cubs to spare.
We least discuss the thing that is next us all. After our coming, our only unanimous share is to go. Health, love, happiness — these are for many, perhaps for most, but at least some fail of them. And we talk of these matters every day* But there is one surety for every mother's son — that he shall in his time rest him in [the lap of the dark All-Mother. And of her we t hink and speak only upon compulsion, and with a shiver as if she were our Foe, and as if we could dodge her by evading her name.
The Lion has known Death in many forms and in many lands, and many times thought to be elect of it ; and whether seen or appre- hended, it has never seemed to him hideous. In a decent world, noth- ing which is universal and inevitable can be hideous. Its settings may be cruel ; but Death itself is not hard — as probably all know who have often faced the grey Change. Nor have I ever seen one die afraid. The swift pat of a bullet, the sweet drowsiness of mortal cold, the queer, weak content of an unstanched bleeding, the mechanical halt of breath in a peaceful bed — none of that is hard. It is easy to die. It is not even an effort.
To live is work. Inside us, but without our mandate, our ceaseless navvies of heart and lungs toil over their unbroken tread-mill. That two-pound valve — the only muscle which is independent of its landlord's will — lifts more in a lifetime than its
IN THE LION'S DEN. 57
200-pound owner could. And all this strang-e, involuntary, tremend" ous eng-inery travails without rest that we may be thing-s that be- yond it all shall, for ourselves, toil and hope, win and lose, love bitter-sweet, and be bereaved even as we love ; that we shall have our faiths and our doubting-s, our ideals and our disillusions, our joys and our agonies. If it were as cruel to die as to be left, the world would be a mad-house. But it is no trouble to die.
But we who must for now stay this side that impenetrable THie door our hopes have passed — how shall we do ? Shall we harder
beat upon its unechoing- panel, and cry aloud ? Shall we lie part.
dumb beside it, useless to them that are still unushered as to him who has passed through ? Shall we treat it as a special trap laid by Providence to pinch Us ? Is it an affront and robbery ? A personal spite of heaven upon our marked head ? Shall we be broken, or bitter, or hardened ?
Or shall we g-o on the more like men, for having- now all man's burdens, in the ranks that need us ? Shall we envy them that are spared our pain, or find new sympathy for the innumerable company that have tasted the cup before us, and the greater hosts that shall taste it after? Shall we " won't play" because the game is against us ? Or play it the more steadily and the more worthily for very love and honor of the dead ? These are new questions the Lion has to ask himself. Perhaps it will do no harm to ask them out loud. For there are others at the same cold blackboard even now.
They who have lived and suffered should be able to under- but stand the springs of human action. I can comprehend ^S WK
how men lie, steal, murder. EJven how men, for a child's death, curse God — and accurse all in His image that are bounden to them. They see it that way — and man always justifies himself somehow for whatever he does. But, from another point of view, that all seems impudent and cowardly. If a man cared really more for his child than for himself, should it not occur to him that the only thing he can do now for that promoted soul is to be worthier to have begotten it ? To be a wiser man, a juster man, a tenderer man; a little gentler to the weak, a little less timorous of ** advantage," a little more unswerving in duty as I see it, a little more self-search- ing to be sure I see it straight — what else can I do now for my little boy ? It is good to remember; but the vitality of remembering is to Do for its sake.
How to "bound" God, like sing-song children in the our geography, I have not the remotest idea. I know nothing common
of Him, except that He is the Best I Know. But perhaps ground.
we can all agree that the nearest we futile mites ever come to the Infinite is in our home. If God is not lodged in a baby's love for father and mother, and in their love for him — why, the poor coward that Denies is right, after all. Whatever it is, whoever it is, that can «voke from my body a frail new life stronger than my own, a new
SBB.
58
LAND OF SUNSHINE.
soul to love me and to teach me a greater love ; that can uphold me — or give me to uphold myself — when the candle of my hope goes out and I am left groping in the dark — so much I can call God. I could not call so a Power so unoccupied as to busy itself with lending me a child till it should be half my soul, and then calling in the loan to see me squirm or because He needed that gentle companionship more than I did. Whatsoever the Power is which goes by many names, and in as many dimensions as there are men, it is adequate and it is trustworthy — and trust means to trust when it is hard. And the one reason why death is bearable from outside is because life is appointed a chance to earn its rest, and because love can outlast it.
A GOOD Out of his pain, the Lion wishes a good New Year to all
NEW the world. To his friends, that they be not so hardly tested,
YEAR
if SO may be ; but that in any event they may have the mastery. To his enemies — who are next-best, for while friends share our sorrows, a good foe can help us drown them — either better eyesight (for we are all only as we see), or more muscle in their myopy. Wanton riot is out of the L/ion's way ; but he does not know of anything just now which could so assuage him as to have some one come along looking for trouble to some cause he loves.
To his country, full use of its conscience — which would include all the details one could ask.
To the men across the world, whose homes are burned, whose wives and babes are being cattled in corrals, who patriotism is proclaimed infamy, whose only hope is their rifles and their God — to them good cheer and more power. They never shall have failed utterly, so long as one stranger's heart burns for them. May they have many a Magaliesburg. May their stout hearts And, this year, what they have earned by a devotion unsurpassed in history — the independence of their mother-land.
To their oppressor, as friendly a wish — that she may conquer not the Boers but her own baser passions.
To the brown men in our own crown colonies, success, not in kill- ing American soldiers, but in stirring American hearts. May they be given, in the dawn of the 20th century, the noblest gift a nation ever gave — justice. Not education by compulsion, not benevolence, not electric lights and cars, but Freedom. For their freedom means ours.
To all and several, the best one year can bring — not, perhaps, the easiest, but the Best. If right to stay right ; if wrong to be set right. And whether it is to be a good New Year or not, is in our own hands, each for himself and for so many as he can reach.
AS ONE Those who find it easier (as perhaps we all do) to decide
HAVING what is right and what is wrong after some voice of au-
AUTHOKITY. thority has spoken, may venture to begin to have convic- tions after Benjamin Harrison's superb Ann Arbor speech. Mr. Harrison was, not so very long ago. President of the United States,
rHE LION'S DEN. 59
and therefore infallible ; and it would be a pity to believe that the term ends all his brains. He is also a Republican, a very faithful party man ; is recog-nized as the ablest lawyer of those who have held the ofiice since I^incoln, and as a conservative of the conserva- tives; so his plain and powerful arraignment, both on moral and constitutional grounds, of our course in the Philippines is rather startling. When that sort of a man speaks out, it is time for the rest of us to listen and to think. He is neither a stiffneck like Reed, nor sentimental like Hoar, nor impulsive like Mason. livery thing considered, his deliverance is perhaps the most impressive that has yet been made upon a theme we must all discuss pretty thoroughly before we are done with it. And, perhaps unconsciously, we are coming to realize that ; for no one has yet called ex-President Har- rison a '* traitor," nor proposed stopping his mail.
There is no special uncertainty about his utterances, either. He voted for Mr. McKinley, but does not seem to have thought that he was giving a mortgage on his brains, lungs and conscience. He seems to think that right and wrong, wisdom and unwisdom, justice and oppression are still jobs for an American to put his own head and heart to work upon, even after he has voted.
The Constitution follows the flag, says Mr. Harrison. The our Constitution covers Puerto Rico and the Philippines — the crown
whole Constitution, not the part some administration may find it convenient to apply. He even calls the Imperial idea of what we can do with our colonies, "shocking " — as God knows it is — and with calm mercilessness flays the awful cant of "God's having put these responsibilities upon us." Our fathers fought not for privi- leges but for rights ; they meant those rights should be for all men. "The man who has to depend upon benevolence for his laws is a slave," says Mr. Harrison, with almost brutal truth. And he says, with as little dodging :
** A government of unlimited and absolute executive powers [and that is what we are applying in the Islands] is not an American gov- ernment. For one, I do not believe the makers of our Constitution ever intended to confer the power of any such government over any one in the Constitution. It is not right to say that because of slavery our fathers did not mean all men. It is a different thing to allow an existing condition to continue, from creating an entirely different condition to meet commercial necessity."
"No man can read that schedule of rights which the President gave to the Philippine Commission, in an inverse order, without horror. Did you ever read one of the treaties made by the United States with an Old World Power? One on side they speak of the ' subjects of her majesty,' and on the other ' the citizens of the United States.' Now if these provisions, guaranteed to citizens of the United States, do not apply to the citizens of the Philippine Islands, it is time for us to amend these treaties by adding * and sub- jects ' after the words, ' and citizens of the United States.' "
" The Constitution provisions regulating the crime of treason seem to apply to these people. We have never had any trouble with this question in our government of the territories before. What have we
60 LAND or SUNSHINE.
been doing ? Have we acquired these territories that we might hold them for crown colonies ?"
THR "But do you not see," continues the ex-President, "that
GRAVER there is a graver peril hanging over us ? Are the rights of
PERiiv. the people upon the mainland secure when we exercise arbi- trary power over people from whom we demand entire obedience ? The flag cannot stand for the benevolent policies of the administra- tion. It must stand for permanency. Is it not a mockery to raise the flag over the people of Puerto Rico and bid them respect it, and then issue to them an absolute power of government from the staff beneath ? If the act of annexation does not carry the Constitution, I can think of nothing that does. The Constitution goes to annexed territory because of the act.
"A gentleman wrote me that it was absolutely necessary to pass the Puerto Rican tariff to protect the beet-sugar business. I thanked him, but I could not see that it referred to the question. The fact that we give all the money secured by the tariff back to Puerto Rico does not affect the question. It did not satisfy our fathers when it was proposed to expend the money derived from the Stamp Act in this country.
'* The recent acquisitions from Spain may present a question of greater loss than gain. You will pardon me if I cannot rejoice because of the acquirement of territory which must be governed by authority rather than by the provisions of that grand old Consti- tution.
*' In conclusion, allow me to suggest the sentiment : * God forbid that the day should ever come when the thought of man as a con- sumer should absorb that grand old doctrine that man is a creation of God endowed with inalienable rights.' "
COUNTING Up to Christmas, 1900, England's attempt to kill off the
THE South African Republics has cost her five hundred million
^^^'^' dollars ; has disabled 70,000 of her sons (11,000 died of wounds, 13,000 wounded, 12,000 in hospitals in Africa, 36,000 "re- turned to England sick, wounded, or died on passage ") ; and has stripped her of the last vestige of military "glory." The way of the transgressor is hard. And the end is not in sight. The war is now in British territory ; Cape Colony is invaded, Kimberly is cut off, British regiments and guns are being captured by the men whose farms have been burned and their wives and children herded inside barbed wire. And the real English people — the people we love as much as we despise their politicians — are beginning to be heard from, even as they were a century and a quarter ago when the politicians waged as cruel and as shameless a war.
Even so, also, the American people are beginning to think about their own politician-made war.
HOW IT The sane and sober Dial, touching the Ross case, says :
l<OOKS TO «* It was, of course, to be expected that the matter would be
SCHOLARS, made the most of by sensation-seeking newspapers. . . .
Broadly viewed, it seems less a question of academic freedom than
academic common sense The instructor questioning in
his class-room the legitimacy of the fortune by which the University had been established, while not scrupling to accept a portion of the same fortune in payment of his professional salary. Now if these
IN THE LION'S DEN. 61
things were true, or Mrs. Stanford believed them to be true, her re- sentment was natural and inevitable ; and in any event, it seems to us that such generous devotion and boundless liberality as she has shown to the institution whose welfare lies so near her heart, might fairly have entitled her to more considerate and more kindly treat- ment than she has received from some quarters. We do not believe, from all we know of this case, that the principle of freedom in teaching- is in any serious danger at Stanford University. It cer- tainly could not suffer at the hands of President Jordan, who was sufficiently well known both for character and scholarship before he went out to make Stanford University i one of the greatest civilizing influences, and himself one of the greatest individual forces for good, on the Pacific Coast."
The Columbia College " Hall of Fame " includes various more or less useful Americans and excludes Edgar Allan Poe. This is one of the few things for which Columbia College has ever been famed.
"We are kin in sin," says Mark Twain of the Boer and Philippine oppressions.
It is a startling fact, revealed by the 12th U. S. Census, a i^ksson that the city of Ivos Angeles has not only grown faster than in The
any other in the American Union, between 1890 and 1900, but CENSUS,
that it utterly distances all the others in its own State. It has gained within 727 of as many new citizens as all the other cities in the State put together (except San Francisco) which now have over 10,000 popu- lation ; and 8,339 more than the big metropolis, which for nearly half a century was California. This little table is very significant :
CITY 1890 1900 GAIN
Oakland 48,682 66,960 18,728
Sacramento 26,386 29,282 2,896
San Diego 16,159 17,700 1,541
Stockton 14,424 17,506 3,082
Alameda 11,165 16,464 5,299
Fresno 10,818 12,470 1,652
SanJos6 10,000 21,500 11,500
Berkeley 5,101 13,214 8,113
Totals IJight Cities 142,735 195,096 52,811
Ivos Angeles 50,395 102,479 52,084
San Francisco 298,997 342,742 43,785
But what does it all mean ? That L<os Angeles is intrinsically so much superior to all parts of California? The Ivion thinks not — and he lives in Ivos Angeles. God has been good to all the State. All of it is better than the home of any one of its million and a quarter im- migrants, and as good as any of us shall know this side of the Other Country. This astonishing preponderance of one end of the State is no reason for any more of the miserable and ignorant jealousies of which we have had too much already. It means something more than that. God has not busied Himself in giving real-estate minds some- thing to strut over. It means that, with equal natural advantages, the people of one section have stumbled into a wiser improvement of them — and that the people of the other section had better learn. It is a complicated affair, but the backbone of it is that the part of Cali- fornia which is growing enormously faster than all the rest is the part which realizes the necessity of communal or associative effort.
Chas. F. IvUMMIS.
62
THAT WHICH IS
WRITTEH
Perhaps the best test for the re- viewer to apply to his own sincerity ^, >^- — the fundament of his fitness for the job
*»-^ " at all — is his inner attitude when some former tar- ^^»*- ' ' get disappoints him. If he is not really relieved
and g"lad to discover that the man whose work he condemned before is doing work now that can be praised, then he cares more for his vanit)^ than for the truth. For the only real reason for review- ing at all is to promote the truth (be it artistic, literary or scientific) by praising them that really toil after it, and rapping the knuckles of such as do not care for it, that they may learn to care.
GARLAND'S It is a pleasant thing — to those who have most deprecated
"cow-country" his rawness — to feel that Hamlin Garland is still growing; STORY. and that his latest work is his best. Strength he has had right along ; and he is better learning how to use it. The Eaglets Heart, just out, seems to me the best-balanced book he has yet writ- ten. It escapes that pessimism of youthful minds which marked — and marred — much of his earlier writing. It is in better taste, as a rule ; perhaps also in better proportion. It seems to mark his long steps on the road to learn that rudeness is no part of strength — nay, that the very strongest are constrained not to be rough. This heroic chronicle of ^ cowboy — novel one can hardly call it, but powerful story of the West it certainly is — is actually less coarse in fiber than many of his stories of middle-State farmers. It has faults. The aquiline trope is worked a good deal over-time — and if all the "eagles" that could well be spared from the text were added to his royalty, Mr. Garland would be better off. It is evident enough, too, that he does not know the "cow-country" quorum pars, as Hough dt)es — or as he himself knows the milder plowed fields of the hoe- States. What Mr. Garland thinks he means when he sa3-s (p. 119) "his hands were quick and sure as the rattlesnake's black, forked tongue," an overruling providence may know, but not we mortal mites. The only thing a rattlesnake's tongue ever bit was Mr. Gar- land. For common people he uses his fangs, which are "quick and sure " and one of the few known remedies for blunderers.
The house of Appleton, which publishes the book, is one of the best in the country, and one of those most given to "cultivating" West- em readers and writers. Possibly it can increase its usefulness in the West, however, ,by hiring a proofreader who knows how to spell the familiar Western word Bronco. It should be a proofreader who goes to church — and thereby knows what c-h sounds like in church. It should also be no effete person, but a man still able-bodied enough to open a dictionary (any dictionary) and discover that bronco is a Spanish word, and not a Greek sister to his bronchial tubes. A man who spells bronco " bron-cho " may do for tourists, but he will never be popular with Westerners — who are not ignoramuses and do not like to be taken to be. D. Appleton «& Co., 72 Fifth avenue, New York. $1.50.
THAT WHICH IS WRITTEN. 63
If anyone is writing- more searching- short stories — simpler, Bi^AUTiFul, straighter, truer — than Grace E^Uery Channing's best, this short
reviewer has yet a keen pleasure in store. For he knows of STORies.
none. They are so unspoiled by a breath of the epidemic " smartness," so unaffected, so unforced, so instinctive as a child toward the eternal verities, so womanly in intrinsic delicacy; so human — above all, so intuitive of the fact that what is all-human is beautiful. Mrs. Chan- ning-Stetson's latest collection. The Fortune of a Day, includes eight short stories, and some of her best. They are stories no one alive need blush to have written, and that few, apparently, are now so un- dulterated as to be able to write. I^or with no jewelry of rhetoric, no strut of consciousness, they prick the heart. The most powerful is clearly "Ashes, Dust and Nothing-"; but all are exquisite — perhaps particularlv the title number and " The Uccelli with Golden Voices." H. S. Stone & Co., Chicago. $1.25.
Perhaps only the curious in research will off-hand recognize a novei* in Richard Yea and Nay the Ivion Heart of the Crusades ; of a
but any who have read The Forest Lovers, or the Little king.
Novels of Italy, will need no bait to bring them to a longer and more ambitious novel by Maurice Hewlett. His workmanship — a medieval lapidarying — and his fine feeling for Romance, have made Mim. per- sona grata with the judicious. Neither style nor plot have fallen off in this longer work. As to its esoteric accuracy as "historical," I am no expert ; but its stately tread and compelling vitality are easy to be known. Beyond question, it is an uncommon book, and an un- common good one. There is a good deal of highly effective character drawing; and particularly "Jehane," Richard himself, his scrub brother John, " Gilles de Gurdun " and the " Old Man of Musse " are striking and vital figures, for all the antique stage-clothes ; and sev- eral others are only less so. Such a story, in such a style, is a rare achievement. A curious slip of the pen on p. 408 puts " King Henry " for "King Richard." The Macmillan :Co., 66 Fifth avenue, New York. $1.50.
A really sound piece of workmanship in a field wherein good a brownies work is rare, is the modest little volume The Childhood of from
Ji-shib the Ojibwa, by Albert Krnest Jenks, whose excellent WFB.
paper on The Wild Rice Gatherers of the Upper Lakes is known to students. Ji-shib, however, is no technical essay, but a sympathetic and truthful account of the childhood of a typical Ojibwa, and is a story to interest deeply almost any intelligent boy or girl. The dec- oration and illustration are not quite worthy of so commendable a book ; and it is a pity to see an Indian called a Red Man by an author who really knows Indians — for neither Dr. Jenks nor Prof. McGee (who writes the introduction) ever saw a Red Indian, nor ever will, save by grace of war-paint. Indians are brown. But this is a trifle in so praiseworthy and so readable a book. The American Thresher- man, Madison, Wis. $1.
There is much that is stirring and touching, and more than i^ovK a little that is fine, in Crittenden, "A Kentucky Story of and
Ivove and War," as is to be expected from John Fox, jr. But war.
the book as a whole does not seem to me up to Mr. Fox's best. The Spanish war is too close for perspective, as yet, unless from a greater draughtsman ; though Mr. Fox colors his picture well. Kilipsis is carried to a vice, in the style. But after all the story is refreshing. Chas. Scribner's Sons, 153 Fifth avenue, New York. $1.25.
" How to be sane though clever," might be a good elective a PiyAY to include in the curriculum of the University of the Future ; upon
for cleverness is daily becoming commoner, and hard sense nSRVBS.
64 LAND or SUNSHINE.
more rare, in literature. That Mr. Barrie is almost gaspably clever, there are probably no two opinions. He plays with his thought, its heirs and assigns, its ghost and the shadow of its ghost's penumbra, until the very sawdust in the doll must ache to be laid down that its eyes may shut — and always with a flexibility and a pretext of reality which might almost convince the waxen beauty herself. No sane person deprecates refinement or subtlety in their place. A fine finish is worthy of oak — but it is a mistake to put an oak polish on bark. It is also a mistake to confound a sub-hysteric tension with in- tellect ; and that it is so prevalent in our current literature makes it none the less a mistake. I have nothing against Sentimental Tommy; but when it comes to the Sentimental Toramyrot of Tommy and Grizel, it seems to me time for Mr. Barrie to consult Dr. Pierce whose Favorite Prescription is said to alleviate these symptoms.
That it is a popular book is highly probable ; that it is a brilliant book in its way, may be admitted. If it is, however, a normal or a manly or a healthful brilliancy, I hare misread men and sanity where they grow. But it is precisely what its audience wishes ; and that is precisely why it was written. Chas. Scribner's Sons, 153 Fifth avenue, New York. $1.50.
POBMS A well dressed limited edition (300 copies, type) environs the
OF A scholarly measures of The Sphinx, and Other Poems, by
BOOKMAN. Prof .Wm. Henry Hudson, of Stanford University. In work- manship and even brilliancy, these lines are of excellent satisfaction. Prof. Hudson is a bookman — an Oxonian, I believe — and knows the tools of his craft, and uses them with a cunning hand. Perhaps it is my misfortune that I cannot lose sight of the profession of literature, and that the poems keep me approving their admirable technique. Elder & Shepard, San Francisco.
THB MAN Of all the multitude of ** Shakespeare books," doubtless the
OF most sumptuous in dress is Hamilton W. Mabie's JVilliam
AVON. Shakespeare ; Poet, Dramatist and Man. Its beautiful ooze binding, the rich, abundant and pertinent illustration — there are a hundred pictures, covering very largely the very things one wishes to see — and admirable general make-up, render it an accession to any library, so far as the externals go ; and its content is worthy of the expensive setting. The book is probably the best popular study of that mysterious personality which is still the riddle of our English literature. Mr. Mabie writes like a gentleman and a scholar, an ad- mirable judge of what refined people like to read ; he makes his study eminently readable and a good deal informative ; and he shows excellent sense and balance in his treatment of a subject which is one of the easiest in the world to become inspirational about. The book will not only be prized in thousands of homes — the few really great Shakespeareanists will probably respect it as thus far the most successful popularization of the life, environment and character of the Man of Avon. And that is a handsome thing to have done. The Macmillan Co., 66 Fifth Ave., New York. $6.
PROPBR, The conventions do not come tardy off in Brown, of Lost
BUT River, by Mary E. Stickney. The cowboy hero is drawn
pi^KASANT. reasonable Man enough for any girl ; but of course he can- not have the heroine tourist until he turns out to be a gentleman in disguise. This concession to the Ruskin Club was probably unneces- sary, as Hamlin Garland has shown. But Mrs. StiCkney has made withal an inoffensive, unpretentious and agreeable outsider's story of a Wyoming ranch. D. Appleton & Co., 72 Fifth Ave., New York. $1.25.
THAT WHICH IS WRITTEN. 65
A very pretty book, and with a gfood deal of entertaining- another animal lore, is Mooswa, and Others of the Boundaries, by animai,
W. A. Fraser. The illustration, by Arthur Heming-, is book.
much better than the averag-e. Mr. Fraser spent six seasons on the Athabasca and Saskatchewan ; and his stories are a very dilute fimgle Book of the fur-bearers of the North. Aside from the too evident imitation of Kipling-, the most serious fault of the book seems to me its rather petty characterization of the animals. There is little discernment of that beast dig-nity which really inheres in all the wild animals — as ever3^ deep student of the wilderness knows ; and as Kipling- and Seton-Thompson have so superbly translated. But Mr. Fraser is modest, and in a limited sense sympathetic. Chas. Scribner's Sons, 157 Fifth Ave., New York. S2.
The Bennett Twins, by Grace M. Hurd, is a simple, sane modbst and cheerful story of a mig-hty nice brother and sister — young
youngsters, studying- art and music — who seek their ever- pBOPLK.
lasting- fortunes in New York. Unlike story-bookers in general, they do not bring the urban monster to their feet and conliag-rate the East River, But they do keep the wolf from devouring- them, and are to be commended for this moderation, as well as for their cheerv youth. The MacmillanCo., New York. $1.50.
If any woman in the United States has struck a literary thk good bonanza, and knows how to work it, Alice Morse Karle is oi^d
she. It seems to be no trouble in the world to her to know days
what to write about — even when the averag-e successful author is racking- his or her brains for " material." The trouble with them is that they look for it in the wrong- place — inside. Mrs. Karle looks ^^^;::i.3E_ out ; and it is blessed to note how much she sees. Her Home Life In /"^""^J^^^ Colonial Days, and her Child Life ditto, were fascinating- volumes ; •' oy
and her Stage Coach and Tavern Days is as charming-. It — like.' ''J..V_ its predecessors — is of those happy books which find delig-hted au- ^ diences now, and will g-row more valuable as time g-oes by. Readers '■" will still be rising- up to call her blessed when 99^ of the " popular books " shall have been wholly forgotten. Mrs. Earle's indefatig-able industry in finding out, her friendly, colloquial medium, and her sympathetic touch in humanizing by-gone days, are alike notable. The present fat octavo of some 450 pages and over 350 illustrations — including great numbers of the old-time taverns and their signs, and stage-coaches — is in some ways the most " taking " of all this admir- able series. The Macmillan Co., 66 Fifth Ave., New York. $2.50.
Derelicts of Destiny is a modest little volume of six short stories by Batterman I^indsay, of Seattle; and good, straightforward human stories they are, with much of strength and quiet pathos. One of them, "My Grandmother's Wedding," will be remembered by many readers of this magazine; and "Abandoned" is the very photo- graph of a tragedy. The Neely Co., Chicago.
More Fables, it hardly need be said, are by the unmitigated George Ade, who has done their amusing like before. Doubtless one ought not to relish this perishable slang ; but doubtless one does. In homeo- pathic doses, that is ; one should not read the book straightaway. By chapters it is even funny. Herbert S. Stone & Co., Chicago. $1.
A fine, workmanlike piece of scientific work is Joseph Grinnell's Bi7'ds of the Kotzebue Sound Region, Alaska, No. 1 of the "Pacific Coast Avifauna" series of the Cooper Ornithological Club. This young Pasadenian is fast making himself a good name among- stu- dents. The Cooper Club, Santa Clara, Cal. Paper, 75c.
66
LAND OF SUNSHINE.
To the attractive pocket-size '* Lark edition " has now been added Markham's Tl/aw IVif/i the //i?^, effectively decorated by Porter Gar- nett, and with a good reproduction, for frontispiece, of Millet's paint- ing. Doxey, At the Sign of the Lark, New York.
An unpretentious booklet of unexpectedly good verse is Will J. Mere- dith's In the Love of Nature. The poems are natural, clear, well- turned and without affectations or pessimism. Metropolitan Print- ing Co., Seattle.
Among the important recent monographs received in this office are our Geo. Parker Winship's "Some Facts about John and Sebastian Cabot;" A. Lr. Kroeber's interesting "Tales of the Smith Sound Eskimo;" Geo. A. Dorsey's review of six years of the "Department of Anthropology, Field Columbian Museum ;" Marshall H. Saville's- "Cruciform Structures Near Mitla ; " and Albert S. Gatschet's- "Grammatic Sketch of the Catawba Language."
Jacinta, "A Californian Idyll, and Other Verses," by Howard V. Sutherland, is issued for the author in the attractive Lark fashion. The little poem is a saturated solution of Joaquin Miller; "after" his meters, his simplicity and some of his tricks, but absolutely with- out Joaquin's inevitable flame. The other poems are uneven ; and the book a well done commonplace. Wm. Doxey, New York.
The American Journal of Nursing is a surprisingly well made and creditable monthly magazine by the Associated Alumnae of Trained Nurses of the United States. J. B. Lippincott Co., Philadelphia. $2 per year, 20 cents a number.
Mrs. Elizabeth Grinnell, of Pasadena, Cal , has published a pleas- ant Sunday-school story. For the Sake of a Name, David C. Cook Pub. Co., Chicago. Bound, 25 cents.
Generous and dignified in size, type and illustration, and strenu- ously but seriously modern, The World^s Work is a new magazine which makes a sound bid for a respectable clientage. Under the shrewd editorship of Walter H. Page it promises interest and profit in its " earnest concern with the activities of the newly organized world, its problems, and even its romance." As the phrase indicates, it is ex-officio Imperialist. But the first numbers have a large amount of interesting and instructive matter. Doubleday, Page & Co., 34 Union Square, E., New York. 25 cents a number, $3 a year.
The second part of the List oj Private Libraries^ compiled by Mr. G. Hedeler, of Leipzig, will soon be ready. It will contain more than 600 important private collections of the United Kingdom, including supplement to Part I ( U. S. ^1. and Canada). Possessors of libraries, with whom Mr. Hedeler has been unable to communicate, are re- quested to furnish him with a few details as to the extent of their treasures and the special direction to which they devote themselves^
Chas. F. Lummis.
THE IvlTTl^K BOY THAT WAS.
Photo by C. F. L.
AMADO BANDKIvIKR LUMMIS — BORN NOV. 15, 1894; DIKD DEC. 25, 1900.
69
The Inner Harbor at San Pedro.
ty C. D WILLARD.
©p
|HK people of I^os Ang-eles and vicinity are now actively at work to secure an appropriation from the g-overnment to beg-in the im- provement of the Inner Harbor of San Pedro. Although the possibilities to Ivos Ang-eles that are involved in this proposed improvement are of enor- mous import, yet the matter at issue is not widely understood in the city and is g-enerally misapprehended by people residing- at a distance.
Some confusion arose in the begin- ning out of the fact that there are really two harbors at San'Pedro, an outer and an inner ; and ithis was increased by the further fact that the government, instead of following the logical order, which was to improve the inner harbor first to the fullest practical extent, and then develop the outer harbor, aban- doned the inner section when it was in shape to accommodate merely the light- est draft vessels of the coastwise trade, and began on the work of construct- ing the outer section: This back- handed method of procedure was the result of an accident rather than of deliberate intention, although it was ordained by Congress. A few words will explain how it occurred, and will help to make the present situation clearer to the reader's mind.
In the beginning — thirtj" years ago —the engineering authorities of the country selected San Pedro as the most available point for the development of a harbor for the commerce of I^os Angeles, and pro- ceeded to construct jetties to control the tide flow, and to dredge and otherwise improve this harbor.
The sum of $900,000 was expended, and from a depth of a foot and a half, mean low tide, at the entrance, a depth of 15 feet was finally secured, which admits the smaller lumber and coal craft of the coast. This finished the original j^roject, and the question then arose "what next."
The Southern Pacific Railroad, through its president, Mr. C. P^ Huntington, favored the construction of a deep-water harbor at Santa Monica rather than San Pedro, and began working at the capi- tal in favor of the former location and against the latter. The people,
A FREQUENT VISITOR.
70
LAND OF SUNSHINE.
PORTION OF INNER HARBOR I^OOKING IvANDWARI),
however, asked for San Pedro, in the belief that a harbor built at that place would be more accessible to all railroads than one built at Santa Monica. Two successive commissions of engineers were ap- pointed by act of Congress to investigate the matter, and each re- ported in. favor of San Pedro. But no appropriations could be se- cured for either the outer or the inner harbor at San Pedro through a considerable period of years.
At last, in 1896, the people, as represented by the Chamber of Com- merce and the Free Harbor League, were granted their request for the $392,000 which was needed to take the next step in the improvement of the inner harbor, but there was coupled with this an appropriation of $2,900,000 for the construction of a deep-water harbor at Santa Monica. This was in the first report of the House Committee on Rivers and Harbors, but when the Los Angeles organizations de- manded that the money for an outside harbor be spent at San Pedro instead of Santa Monica, the committee struck both items out of the bill.
The matter then went up to the Senate where Los Angeles was for- tunate in having the services, on the Commerce Committee, of Senator Stephen M. White, a resident of this city, and a man of great deter- mination, eloquence, and force of character. 63-^ his personal strength, and through the righteousness of his cause, he managed, although in a minority on his committee, and although he met with most determined opposition on the floor of the Senate, to secure the appointment of a third commission, whose decision on a location was to be final.
In the shifting phases of the compromise that was thus achieved, the original appropriation of $392,000 for the inside harbor at San Pedro was dropped out, Senator White deeming it wisest not to stand on this, as the sum involved in the outer harbor was over six times
THE INNER HARBOR AT SAN PEDRO
71
PORTION OF THE PRESENT INNER HARBOR, SHOWING THE ENTRANCE.
greater, and for that reason very difficult to secure ag-ain if lost on this occasion.
The new commission reported — as the friends of San Pedro had always maintained it would — in favor of San Pedro. After consider- able delay the work was beg^un, and although hindered for a time by the failure of the first set of contractors to comply with the require- ments, which necessitated revoking- their contract and letting to a second firm, the work is now well under way, and is proceeding with satisfactory rapidity.
It will require about four years more time to complete the outer harbor, and will consume nearly all of the $2,900,000 which was ap- propriated for the purpose. When it is done, it will consist of a wall of rock 14 feet above the water's edge at low tide, beginning at a point 3000 feet from the shore near Point Firmen, and running along a bent line for 8,500 feet around and beyond Dead Man's Island.
This will create a protected area of about one square mile, where vessels of all dimensions and of the deepest draft may lie at anchor through storms. It is a harbor of refuge and for naval necessities. It can also be made a harbor of commerce, but only at great expense, and under unfavorable conditions. A true harbor of commerce must have facilities for bringing ship and rail together. It must be possible to unload directly from the hold of the vessel into cars standing on the track. In the case of the outer harbor at San Pedro, this result can be achieved only by the construction of enormously long wharves from the mainland out into deep water. A railway would hesitate to go to this expense, even if the investment were known to be a permanent one, and in view of the fact that whenever the inner harbor is built — which must come to pass sooner or later — such wharves would be entirely superfluous, no company is likely to undertake their construction. Thus the completion of the harbor
72
LAND OF SUNSHINE.
work now under way at San Pedro will leave Los Ang-eles about as far away from the harbor that is really needed for its commercial development as it was in the beg-inning-.
Yet it must not be supposed that the outer harbor work is of no value. It was needed, in the first place as a harbor of refuge for storm-tossed vessels plying- the coast. It was needed, morever, for naval purposes. But its chief value will be of course as a comple- ment to the inner or commercial harbor when the latter is finished.
It is perhaps a fortunate thing- for the people of this reg-ion that the natural order was reversed, and that the outer harbor preceded the inner. It is true that the same amount of money — if Cong-ress had seen fit to g-rant so much— spent on the inner harbor, would have g-iven Los Ang-eles facilities for the transaction of a considerable amount of ocean traffic, but we should always have been hampered by the lack of a harbor of refuge, easy and quick of access for ships pursued by storms. It was also needed for commercial reasons, as it allows the vessels entering- the harbor to lay off for a day or two, until their ar- rang-ements for unloading are complete. It serves also as a protection to the entrance of the inner harbor, and will help to maintain it at less cost and in better order.
But if the inner harbor had been the first to come, we might have waited for an indefinite period before the government would have been disposed to g-o to the added expense of constructing- the outer harbor. The latter would then have been regarded as a sort of a luxury to be put off until the commerce of this section had earned it through the revenues collected at the port. Now, however, the situ- ation is just the reverse. The inner harbor is a necessity to g-ive the outer a value. The government almost without the solicitation of the people of this vicinity — certainly without any exj^ectation on their part that it would be done so promptly — has chosen first of all to construct the outer harbor. The great sum of money thus invested will fail to pay the public dividends, so to speak, until the inner work is com- leted. It is hardly conceivable, therefore, that Congress will longer delay in passing the necessary appropriations.
The project for the inner harbor work has been devised and re- ported to the Secretary of War, and everything is in readiness for the work to begin whenever the funds are provided. The River and Harbor Act of March 3, 1890, contained an item instructing the War Office to make a thorough survey of the inner harbor, and re- port upon the feasibility of its further improvement. This work was assigned to Capt. Jas. J. Meyler, who is in charge of government harbor improvement along this portion of the California coast. He was admirably qualified for this undertaking, not merely through his general experience in the army engineer corps, but also because his long service in this region had made him thoroughly familiar with local conditions. A complete survey' of the inner harbor was made, soundings were taken and borings effected, and a practicable plan devised for increasing the depth ot water to 24 feet at mean low tide,
7^ LAND OF SUNSHINE.
and for extending the area of the harbor sufficiently to accommodate all the shipping- that is likely to come to it during- the next g-enera-. tion. The report which embodies this plan was submitted to the Secretary of War, January 6th. 19()0, and was approved by him, to form the basis of future appropriations by Congress.
The estimated cost of the entire undertaking is something over two millions of dollars, but this work diifers from the construction of the outer harbor in that it may be done in portions, and each part completed will be of service immediately. The total work is dredge a channel 400 feet wide and 24 feet deep, at mean low tide, from the ocean beyond Deadman's Island to the lower or outer end of the present wharf frontage, a distance of about a mile ; to dredge the interior channel between the existing wharves to their upper end ; to dredge the inner basin, which is about two-thirds of a mile in diameter, to a depth of thirty feet at mean low tide, in order to provide a turning ground for vessels entering or leaving the harbor ; to extend the jetties at the entrance to 24 feet of water ; to repair the present jetties ; and to build a restraining wall at the head of the Wilmington Lagoon, to direct the storm waters of the Los Angeles River (which, in times of excessive rainfall, flows into the harbor) into the ocean at Long Beach.
The harbor thus created would accommodate vessels of 30 feet draft, the variation between high and low tide averaging about six feet, and this is sufficient for any of the vessels devoted to commer- cial use that ply Pacific waters. Naval vessels of excessively deep draft lean anchor jin ithe outside harbor. The area of the proposed inner harbor would be about 1200 acres, and it would provide about sevenj miles of water front. This is nearly double the area of the outer harbor, and six times as much water front, even if the long piers, to which reference was made heretofore in this article, were built out to the sea wall, making all the outside deep-water area available as wharfage space. The advantage, moreover, of quays which can be flanked by warehouses, factories, offices, etc., over narrow piers is obvious. An ample turning ground is planned in the dredging out of the area at the head of the lagoon. The harbor thus formed would be absolutely land-locked, and free from anything that could be called wave-motion.
It is proposed to do this work by stages, the first of which involves merely the deepening of the entrance channel to 20 feet, the dredg- ing of the channel along the wharves to 24 feet, and the construction of a turning basiri 1600 feet in diameter and 24 feet deep. This will accommodate vessels of 24 foot draft coming in at high tide, and will greatly increase existing commerce. It will require two or three years' time, and will cost about $550,000, of which sum $92,000 will be spent for a dredger, which will be available for service in the harbor at all times in the future.
Application has been made to Congress for an initial appropriation of cash and the adoption of this portion of the project. At the pres-
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ent writing- (December 26, 1900), the report of the House River and Harbor Committee has just been made public, and the hoped-for item of $150,000 does not appear. It is the plan of the friends of the measure to secure its insertion, if possible, by an amendment in the Senate. If it is not obtained in this- session, then a determined eifort will be made to find a place for it in the next River and Harbor Bill.
Very few people are aware, or at least realize, that the harbor which it is intended that Ivos Angeles shall ultimately secure at San Pedro when both inner and outer sections are completed, will be one of the fine ones of the world, equal, in proportion to area, to the harbor of the Golden Gate. There are few people, morever, that ap- preciate what this improvement means to the city of Los Angeles,
PROFILE OF THE OUTER BREAKWATER.
which it will transform from an agricultural and mining center to a great commercial depot, a gateway between the South and the Orient. It will probably require six or seven years to complete both the inner and outer harbors, and if the Nicaragua Canal meets with no unexpected delay, it ought to be ready for service about the same time. There are now three railways leading out from Los Angeles to the East (two systems), and a third will be in operation within the nejtt three years. It is not unlikely that the list will be increased by several more before the expiration of the next decade, thus greatly extending the area of commercial opportunity for Los Angeles. The active agitation that is now in progress for government aid and pro- tection to irrigation development will probably result in settling much of this southwestern territory, which is now reckoned desert, with a thrifty and industrious population. This section of country is commercially tributary to Los Angeles, and as it develops, the busi- ness of that city will be augmented. One thing alone is lacking to make Los Angeles a great commercial center, and that is a satisfac- tory outlet to the sea. Investigation by the authorities of the govern- ment has shown that this may easily be attained b}' the expenditure of a moderate amount of money — only a tithe of what Congress has or- dered spent for a similar stretch of territory on the Eastern coast. It is not to be expected that an etiterprise of this character can be carried through without meeting some opposition, and the money will not be forthcoming except the people of Los Angeles put forth an active effort to secure it ; but the returns to the whole community from this improvement will l>e so great that no exertion should be spared to promote its consummation.
77
Redlands.
BY WILLIAM M. TISDALE.
HE) story of Redlands is a romance of peace and progress. It is a typical illustration of the de- velopment of Southern California during- the past twelve years, commencing- with the close of the g-reat "boom" of 1887. At that time there was little in Redlands except a few hundred acres of newly-planted orang-e or- chards, a brick block or two, a few score unpre- tentious dwelling-s, some pioneer business houses, and a rig-ht-of-way for a railroad to San Ber- nardino, the county seat. No one can claim exclusive credit, today, for the successful efforts to plant a growing- and prosperous com- munity upon a sheep pasture, a range of barren, brush-grown hills and valleys. The substantial foundations of progress were here be- fore a foot of soil was turned. These were the great natural beauty of the situation, the fertility of the soil, the charms of the winter climate, and the promise of permanence of the water supply. These conditions exist in many portions of California, but Redlands claims "an undivided interest," and has a few added charms peculiarly her own.
n Redlands lies in full view of the grandest mountains in Southern California. The range of which San Antonio ( " Old Baldy " ) is the chief, bulwarks the skies upon the northwest, and east of these is the Cajon Pass, through which the Santa F^ railroad finds entrance. From these, easterly along the north, extends a rugged mountain wall about five thousand feet high until Mt. San Bernardino and Mt. San Gorgonio are reached, the former a little less, the latter a little more, than 12,000 feet high. On the far southeast rises the majestic San Jacinto. On the west the valleys lie open to the sea.
The valley varies in width, from south to north, being eight or ten
L A Ens,'. Co
ACROSS THE ORANGE GROVES.
Photo by Everett.
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LAND OF SUNSHINE.
L. A Eng. Co.
SAN BERNARDINO AND
miles at its widest. Standing- in Canon Crest Park, on the southerly limit of the city, we look down, on the south, into the San Timoteo Canon and see the Southern Pacific railroad 300 feet below us. Be- yond this are the low mountains. On the north, the earth slopes away gently to the city, some two miles distant. Beyond this lie the long-, level plains to the Santa Ana river ; and beyond that are the fertile slopes of Highlands and the northern mountain ramparts. North, east and west, as far as the eye can see, are the orang-e g^roves that are making Kedlands famous.
Here, then, is a landscape in which every line is the curved line of beauty, a scene of infinite variety which never palls, a glorious out- look on every hand, a charming vista of ever green orchards encom- passing homes, the compact little city nestling in the center, the superb mountains in the distance, the splendor of the semi-tropical skies over all.
Kedlands lies sheltered by these mountain ranges, beyond which are the deserts. It is ninety miles from the ocean, being the most easterly city in California, except San Diego. The climate there- fore is very different from that of the coast towns, being much warmer and dryer, especially in the winter. Yet there is a delightful crispness and freshness in the air during the cooler months. The average rainfall is twenty inches, although during the dry years just past it has been only four or five. There are often uncomfortably hot days during the four hottest months of the year, although an occasional exceptional summer, such as that just past, glides away with scarcely a day of intemperate heat. The nights are cool almost without exception.
The depth, quality and fertility of the soil in and about Kedlands vary greatly. On the level stretches in the center of the valley the soil is very deep, of a light loam, in some portions almost a sand, easily
REDLANDS.
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SAN GORGONIO MTS. FROM REDI^ANDS.
Ihoto.by A. T.Park
cultiv^ated. Along the heig^hts and the foothills it is a decomposed granite, red, heavy, hard when dry. This soil is not so deep as that of the valley, and, for a long" time, there was a question whether it was adapted to orange culture. That question is now settled by the thousands of acres of magnificent orchards upon these slopes.
Such were the conditions of soil, climate and scenery that attracted the earliest comers to Redlands. The lands in the center of the val- ley were settled first, because the soil was thought to be the best and because water was more easily carried to them.
For years no attempt was made to water the beautiful uplying lands. The nearest possible source of water supply was the mouth of the Santa Ana river, across the valley, miles away, and, as ap- peared to the unaided eye, at a lower level than the lands to be watered. The land was then open to settlement as government land, but was considered worthless. Finally a few enterprising spirits combined, impounded some of the waters of the Santa Ana, brought them in a narrow ditch by a tortuous course along the foothills, over trestles, through tunnels to a point of considerable elevation whence hundreds of acres, theretofore barren, could be watered. In this achievement was the real beginning of the Redlands of today. It was followed by the organization of the Bear Valley Irrigation Com- pany, which conceived and carried through the most daring irriga- tion scheme in the history of California. It impounded winter rain- falls in the bed of an ancient lake among the mountains and brought them for forty miles along the course of the Santa Ana river to a point whence they could be distributed over a wide area. The plan had defects and limitations not recognized by its promotors, and brought ultimate disaster to hundreds of investors ; but it brought also a period of growth and development that determined the destiny of the youthful city.
REDLANDS.
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L. A. Eng. Co.
Lands which, twelve years ago, could have been had by entry and occupation under the homestead laws, or could have been bought from railroad companies for $1.25 an acre, are now worth, with the groves covering them, from $1,000 to $2,000 an acre.
The commencement of the orange-tree planting period at Redlands was just when the Washington navel orange was rising into popu- larity, and probably 80 per cent, of the total acreage in this vicinity is planted to this superb variety. The first car of oranges from fruit grown in this vicinity was shipped in January, 1883. Last year the shipments of citrus fruits were 1800 cars ; the estimated crop of the
present season is 2,000 cars. This will in- crease, as new groves come in- to bearing, to 4,000 cars, pos- sibly to 6,000.
The climatic conditions pe- culiar to Red- lands have greatly favored this important industry. The orange growers of Southern Californiahave had three ene- mies to contend with , frost, scale and drouth. Not one of the three has ever seri- ously injured Redlands. Most seasons have passed with no damage whatever from these sources, and at the worst the loss has never exceeded ten per cent. The drouth of last year brought the greatest perils that have ever threatened, but the owners of these line properties rallied to the occasion, devel- oped, impounded and brought into Redlands 1500 inches of water in addition to the former supply. This not only saved the day but was a permanent addition of at least three-fourths of a million dollars to the wealth of the locality.
The gross value of this year's crop of citrus fruits, in Redlands and its immediate vicinity, in the markets of the I^ast, will be about a million and a half dollars, the net returns to the growers not less than three-quarters of a million. This is an appreciable annual income to a city of only six thousand inhabitants. Methods of irri- gation, cultivation, pruning, fertilizing, packing and marketing have been brought to a science here, and some of them are known far and wide as the "Redlands methods." The quality of the fruit is everywhere recognized as of the finest grown in California, and no district has a better reputation abroad.
Redlands has, up to the present time, marketed its oranges through local cooperative associations of growers, or individual buyers and packers. The oldest association is now in its tenth year, and is known as the Redlands Orange Growers' Association. It includes about one hundred and twenty growers, and markets about one- fourth of the total crop. This, in the opinion of its managers, is as much as it can handle with profit to its members, otherwise its busi-
A SHADY PROMENADE AT THE CASA LOMA.
Photo by K\
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LAND OF SUNSHINE.
ness could have been greatly increased. Its successful experience gives it an enviable position among- the different org-anizations handling citrus fruits. Besides this pioneer association there are some fifteen firms, associations and individuals now engaged in packing and forwarding- oranges from Redlands. Two of these are affiliated with the Southern California Fruit Exchange. This is the first year of their existence, and their career will afford the first test in Redlands of the methods of forwarding- and marketing citrus fruits upon a system of cooperation embracing, in theory at least, the whole of Southern California.
The business section of Redlands is compactly built of .substantial brick structures. The first of these was the Union Bank, opened in May, 1887. It then stood alone upon an undeveloped prairie. The original building has often been remodeled and enlarged, and was finally, a year or two ago, replaced by an entirely new one of pressed brick. The First National Bank, which in April, 1887, commenced business in Lugonia (then a rival, now a part, of Redlands) was later transferred to a corner diagonally opposite the Union Bank, and these two institutions fairly represent the growth and development of the business interests of the community.
Redlands has a full complement of all the usual business houses which supply articles of family use, consumption and luxury, in a
variety and of a qual- ity that would be con- sidered satisfactory in many cities of much greater popula- tion. The train ser- vice to Los Angeles and other points in California, over both the Southern California and the
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Y. M. C. A. BUIlrDING.
Southern Pacific roads, is all that the most exacting could expect, but a transfer must be made to the overland trains at Redlands Junction, distance three miles, for the Southern Pacific, and at San Bernardino, ten miles, for the Santa F^ system. It ia
REDLANDS.
L A. Eng. Co.
A REDI^ANDS GRAMMAR SCHOOI<.
Photo, by Everitt.
hoped and expected that the projected road to Salt Lake, which now may be considered a probability of the near future, will pass directly through Redlands, thus placing- the town upon the main line of a transcontinental road. A street railroad was an early feature of the city's development, and the single mule car has been replaced by a well equipped, up-to-date electric service.
The Redlands Electric Ivight and Power Company was organized in 1892, installed a plant for the generation of electricity by water power, and has, since 1893, furnished electricity for lighting and
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INTERIOR OF ONE OF THE FINANCTAI< Photo by Everitt.
INSTITUTIONS.
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LAND OF SUNSHINE.
AMID ORANGE BI^OSSOMS AND PAI.MS.
power purposes to Redlands and neighboring communities. This was the forerunner of a much more extensive organization, the Southern California Power Company, which has elaborate and costly works for generating electricity by water power in the Santa Ana Cafion, about fifteen miles from Redlands.
In May, 1887, the Redlands News Company was incorporated, and July 16, of the same year, the first issue of the first permanent news- paper appeared, the Weekly Citrogra ph. The present daily of Red- lands, the Facts, was first issued as a weekly in the fall of 1890 and
changed to a daily two years later. The third paper of the city, the Hour, is a recent aspi- rant for public favor, and is a weekl)'. Its principal aim is to support the already powerful sentiment in favor of prohibiting
KK.SIDKNCK OF CHAKl.KS I'lTNAM.
REDLANDS.
85
the liquor traffic, a policy under which ; Redlands has flourished for several years.
The tourist travel to Redlands in the winter is ver^^ heavy, and de- mands especial hotel accommodations, which are provided by the Casa Ivoma. This fine hotel was built five 3'ears ago, partly by public subscription, after the burning of the only tourist hotel in Red- lands. It has been greatly enlarged and improved and has secured a reputa- tion which fills it to overflowing
WINTER BANKS OF KOSKS.
during the winter season. The Windsor is an all-the-)'ear round house. The Baker House is a good hotel for its very moderate prices. There are many private boarding-houses, most of which are open only during the period of tourist travel.
Redlands has drawn its population from every State and Territory in the Union and from many foreign countries. New York, Illinois, Ohio and the New England States have sent the largest percentages. In politics it is emphatically republican. Redlands now stands at the head of the cities of its county in assessed valuation and in amount of postoffice receipts.
Drawn largely from the cultured centers of the Eiast, the people of Redlands are devoted to schools, churches and public improvements. The grammar schools and the high school of Redlands are acknowledged to be among- the best in the State. The latest directory lists nearly a score of religious and charitable so- cieties and nearly thirty associations for social, literary, patriotic
and musical purposes. The
Contemporary Club of Red- ,
lands is always deserving of ^
special mention. It includes 150 ladies of
Redlands, and is devoted
REDLANDS.
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THE SMII.KY PUBI.IC I^IBRARY.
Photo, by Everitt.
to art, letters, society and local reforms. All the leading- religious societies have adequate houses of worship, many of them elegant. Through the liberality of one of her citizens, Mr. A. K. Smiley, Redlands has one of the few handsome buildings in Southern Califor- nia used exclusively for library purposes. It is a modified Mission stj'le of architecture, with tower, tile roof and corridors. It is built of brick, with marble columns and trimmings. The interior finish throughout is of the finest polished hard woods, the windows all of stained glass. It stands in a park of twenty acres adjacent to the business center, and both park and library were a gift to the city. Near the library is a large brick building owned by the Young Men's Christian Association and affording ample quarters for a flourishing society. Within the past two or three years some unusually handsome modern business blocks have been erected. The Columbia Building con- tains one of the finest society halls in the State, for the use of the Knights of Pythias and one or two allied organizations.
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INTERIOR OF THE WBRARY.
Photo, by Everitt.